I awoke in the middle of the night feeling breathless and had a slight headache. The girl next to me was having nightmares (another effect of altitude). Luckily I didn't need the toilet as it was freezing outside. The water in my water
bottle was frozen by dawn! Today was to be one of the hardest days of the trek but luckily it was without the pack.
Nigel and I walked north along the valley keeping close to its western edge. We knew we were walking next to the glacier but we couldn't see it until we ascended along the side of the valley. It was a jumble of ice and rocks. The
walk was tiring due to the lack of oxygen. We needed frequent water stops. On one section the trail crossed a side glacier so it became very vague (glaciers move!) and had lots of ups and downs. We were scrambling over rocks
and boulders. There was hardly any vegetation.
Eventually we descended to a sandy flat with two buildings. This was Gorak Shep at 5160m. We rested after our two hour walk and drank tea. From here we had a choice of walking straight on the Everest Base Camp or climbing up a hill for a view of the mountain itself. We'd already decided on the hill since Everest is not visible from the Base Camp. The two and a half hour "climb" was tiring. I had to stop regularly and felt dizzy at one point when I rushed. Luckily the sky was absolutely clear and blue. Finally we reached the top of the hill (Kala Patar) at 5545m, the highest point on the trek.
Mount Everest (Sagarmatha - 8848m) from Kala Patar
The view from the top was literally and figuratively breathtaking. Our hill was actually a shelf on the flank of Pumori (7145m), a conical mountain marking the border with Tibet at the head of the Khumbu Valley. Next to this was Lingtren (6697m) which had a smooth snow covered face. Glaciers descended from between these peaks. Khumbutse (6640m) had fluted ice walls. The ridges dropped to the Lho La Pass (6606m) into Tibet. Next was Changtse (7205m) almost a perfect white pyramid. The next peak was also pyramidal and unnamed. Beyond this was the black pyramidal rock of Everest (8848m). We could see the South Col (7986m) where the ridge descends before
ascending to Lhotse (8501m). Ahead of us on the far side of the valley was
Nuptse (7879m). Avalanches could be seen and heard from this peak only a few kilometres away. At the foot of Nuptse was the Khumbu Icefall, the result of snow from Everest and Lhotse tumbling down the valley between them. For Everest climbers these house-sized chunks of ice are the most dangerous parts of the climb. Along the valley floor was the Khumbu Glacier, nearly 1km wide and sloping down towards Lobuche, our nightstop.
The Khumbu Glacier from Kala Patar
Continuing our panorama southwards we could see Ama Dablam, Kang Taiga, Tramserku, Tawache and Cholatse. To the west was another glacier (Changri Nup), with the three peaks
of Lobuche behind it, the highest being 6119m. To the north west was the icy face of Chumbu (6820m) and a beautiful stepped glacier. Below this were two small lakes, one green, the other blue.
We were elated to have reached this high point of the trek. Most of the few people at Lobuche hadn't made it this high so it was quiet with half a dozen brave souls sharing the experience with us. We also shared peanuts, chocolate,
and yak cheese. It was windy, cold and bright but very spectacular. The journey back was tiring as the altitude took its toll. It took half an hour to descend to Gorak Shep followed by two hours back to Lobuche. I was cold and tired by the time I slouched back to the lodge. Tomato soup, hash brown potatoes and a Coke perked me up as we huddled around the hot coals.
Slept well except for being woken up by people tossing and turning. Nigel and I were so worn out by yesterday's long day that we only managed to walk for two and a half hours. We walked back down the Khumbu Valley and stopped
at Pheriche (4240m), a village we'd seen from Dingboche earlier. We stayed in out of the cold, playing cards and eating. The dormitory was cold but the football was hot (Arsenal had won again).
Slept well except when I had to go out to the toilet: it was the coldest I'd felt. Muesli, fried eggs and chapattis warmed us up. Nigel and I set off rejoining the main Dudh Khosi Valley but taking a higher route than the one we'd come in on. On the way I ran into Pemba, my Sherpa contact from Phakding. Everest appeared again behind the Nuptse - Lhotse ridge and Ama Dablam took on its familiar form.
Upper Pengboche (about 3900m) was so pleasant that we decided to stay! It was set in a fertile crescent shaded by trees. We hadn't seen trees for days! The houses were Sherpa and Tibetan. Ama Dablam dominated from the far side of the valley. It really is the most picturesque mountain in the region.
I had the chance of a hot shower, the first real wash I'd had for several icy days. In the afternoon we explored the local temple (Pengboche Gompa), the oldest in the Khumbu region. We were shown around by a friendly lama (monk) and saw the famous "yeti scalp" as well as some lovely paintings.
Pengboche Gompa, the oldest temple in the Khumbu region
Slept well and enjoyed fried egg and chapatti for breakfast. The trail continued high and exposed and narrow on the opposite side of the valley that we'd come in on. It was often slippery. This was a quiet route and we saw Musk Deer and Blue Pheasant. We passed on the far side of the Thyangboche Monastery and could hear the work of rebuilding it. The trail was very steep in parts. After two and a half hours we arrived in Phortse on a shelf high above the river. We stopped for a snack. We were at the entrance to the
Gokyo Valley. At the end of this valley was Cho Oyo (8153m - the eighth highest mountain in the world). It would take me three days to get to my destination up
this valley.
Musk Deer along the trail
We descended several hundred meters to the fast flowing river and crossed on a sturdy bridge. At this point Nigel and I separated as he had to return to Kathmandu. He later visited me in London and we shared photos. I headed north
into the valley and the trail ascended very steeply through forest. There were not many people along this trail but it was a very beautiful valley. I passes several waterfalls, some of them icy. It cooled as the sun set behind the
valley walls. At 2pm I arrived at the small settlement of Dhole (4080m). I ate tomato soup, curry and rice, yak steak and a boiled egg. As it got dark, the small lodge filled. Outside it was
misty but I could see the moon shining through.
Slept very well and late (7am). After a false start (I'd left my sleeping bag behind), I set off northwards. The trail descended to a stream, crossed and ascended steeply to a ridge. Again I was above the trees. It was cloudy as the
path levelled off. It was high above the river and desolate. Across the valley I could see, precariously perched settlements. I passed a pair of elderly American ladies.
At Luza I had potato soup, fried eggs and tea. It was only a short climb and drop to my night stop of Macherma (4465m) situated in a side valley near a clear stream. The legend of the Yeti originated in this area!
Lodges here were primitive and it was cloudy and cold. A German stumbled in after descending in the dark after feeling sick. We were the only westerners (in the lower dorms). Two Sherpa girls and a little boy were in the upper dorms.
It took a little while for the place to quieten down.
Woken by a shout in the middle of the night. The little boy was pissing in his sleep and it was dripping onto the German! In the morning it was snowing. After a slow lazy breakfast it cleared up. I continued up the valley climbing a ridge with great views of the snow capped peaks at the end of the valley. After descending to a deserted settlement by the river, I began the long ascent up the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpo Glacier, the largest in Nepal. The river flowed fast and icy and there were large boulders everywhere.
I wandered how the German had come down over this in the dark.
Macherma after a snow shower
I reached the top after an hour. There was a small lake; the first of three. The trail levelled and the valley widened. I knew the glacier was nearby but from ground level they are difficult to see. I passed the larger second lake as it
became grey and overcast. Half an hour later I reached the third lake, the beautiful turquoise
Dudh Pokhari ("Milk Lake"). On the edge of the lake was my destination
Gokyo (4750m), a few buildings housing lodges. I settled into one and had a chapatti and thick potato soup lunch. It was cloudy and cold. The lodge became full. We all hoped for the next day to be clear.
At dawn the weather was cold but crystal clear. After a tea, I set off to climb up the 5483m high snowless peak next to the lake. It was cold and tiring but I knew I was getting fit when I climbed the 600m in less than two hours. I thought I'd seen everything at Kala Patar but the views from here were even better. The panorama from north to south was as
follows: Cho Oyo (the eighth highest at 8153m and on the Tibetan border at the end of the valley), A huge wall of ice formed by Ngozumba Kang (7846m) and
Gyachung Kang (7922m). The 5985m Nup La Pass into Tibet leading to the 7020m Chumbu.
The Gokyo Valley itself was dominated by the Ngozumpo Glacier, the largest in Nepal (19km long, 2km wide), a grey tongue of ice curving along the valley. A brown shelf separated the glacier from Gokyo. Three intensely blue lakes dotted this shelf and I could see the trail I'd followed alongside the glacier to Gokyo.
The Ngozumpo Glacier and three turquoise lakes from Gokyo Peak
Across the valley from where I stood I could see Kangchung (6089m) a black peak with an icy top. Between a gap I could just see Pumori (7145m) from which I'd climbed Kala Patar previously. Next was Changtse (7205m). Clearly looking like the world's highest was Everest (8848m) thrusting into the stratosphere.
Lhotse (8501m) was visible edge on; its steep south face clearly apparent. Beyond was the pinkish Makalu (8470m). This meant that from this one spot I could see four of the world's highest mountains (Everest - 1st, Lhotse - 4th, Makalu - 5th, Cho Oyu - 8th)! Since there are only fourteen 8000m peaks in the world, seeing four of them at one time was quite an achievement.
Everest and Lhotse
The rest of the panorama featured Cholatse and
Tawache down the valley. I could see clouds below the level where I stood! There were glaciers hanging down the side of a lot of the peaks. I could also see into other valleys I'd already visited. I could now identify most of the mountains by sight. I stayed for nearly two hours: the weather was pleasant and it was reasonably warm. I was happy and pleased with myself. After all the earlier struggles it had been a worthwhile trip. I would carry these scenes with me always.
Makalu
The descent only took a quarter of an hour. The lake was a delightful blue when I reached it. I had breakfast and relaxed with several people. It was a happy lodge. Supper was curried chicken and mixed vegetables from tins left behind by a mountaineering expedition!
It was a cold night that revealed a clear, sunny day - ideal for the trek back down the valley. I enjoyed the walk as it was mainly downhill. I was so acclimatised that, as I descended, I felt very strong. The descent down the moraine was slow due to ice. I had tea at Macherma, lunch at Luza and stayed at Dhole. The 670m descent had warmed the atmosphere! For the one and only time on this trek I had the runs!
Today's walk was essentially downhill back towards the Phortse Bridge where I'd left Nigel. It was a sunny day but the parts of the trail in the shade were icy and I had to tread carefully. It was nice to return to the tree line. I enjoyed the smell of pine. I stopped for tea on the intersection of the Dudh Khosi and Gokyo Valleys. From here I had a steep and tiring ascent to a ridge overlooking Phortse and Thyangboche. The trail was deserted but the views were great. At the
top I rested with a Coke enjoying the views across to Ama Dablam.
I set off on an exposed but slightly downhill trail and rejoined the main trail. There were now more people and yaks around. Today was Namche's market day so the trail was busy. Around noon I descended into Namche, the most civilised place I'd been to for a couple of weeks! I got a room to myself - it was nice to have the privacy. I stuffed my face with yak steak, chips, hot lemon and a cold Coke! Next, I had my first hot shower for ages (aahh!). I then bought some socks and t-shirts throwing away some of my clothes that hadn't survived the rigours of the trek. For supper I had tomato soup, meat momos, fresh oranges and hot lemon and heard that Arsenal had won 2 - 0 and were top of the league! I felt "top of the league" also.
Another rest day. I posted some cards and revisited the museum above town. It was far more interesting now that I'd seen the real thing. I treated myself to a big bar of chocolate.
I packed and descended seeing Everest for the last time as I approached the river. I had apple pie, chow mein at Jorsale and left the national park. I was warm enough to remove my down jacket for the first time in ages. I stayed at
Phakding with Pemba's family. His brother cooked me tomato soup, pizza, and apple juice. It was nice not to be freezing all the time.
I had a good sleep and an excellent breakfast: they wouldn't let me pay for everything I had! It was a lazy walk down to Lukla. The airstrip was chaos. Although there were seven flights planned, two had to be cancelled due to bad weather. My name was first on the list but there appeared to be a two day delay.
Back at the airstrip, I wangled a seat on a small helicopter. It was $100 more than the regular flight but I was now looking forward to a quick trip back to Kathmandu. Also, I'd never been on a helicopter before! I boarded around noon
with two Germans (who were as excited as I was), an American (who was also excited but trying to be cool) and a Nepalese banker. It was a superb flight at only 6000m. We followed the route I'd walked nearly a month previously. I saw Nuntala, Trakshindo Monastery, the pass above the apple orchards of Ringmo, the valleys near Junbesi, the Lamjura Pass and the snaky trail I'd struggled up, Kenja (where I'd had my glass of cider), Bhandar on a shelf, Jiri where the road ended, rice terraces, forested hills, villages, rivers in V shaped valleys, and the road to Kathmandu. In the distance were the snow capped Himalayan peaks that I'd spent so much time near.
Finally we entered the lovely Kathmandu Valley - the trek had ended. Some of it had been hard but overall it had been well worth it. One day I'll return ....
