Mexico Chapter 2

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INTRODUCTION

Mexico City is located on an enormous dry lake bed in a highland basin (elevation 7,400 feet) surrounded by towering mountains. The city faces some formidable urban problems. These include horrific air pollution and traffic (4 million vehicles!), and unchecked urban sprawl. It's relentless stimulation of the senses can leave first time visitors bewildered by the
city's chaotic and sometimes exasperating tempo. Today's Mexico City is full of hustle and bustle.The underground Metro covers over 200 miles of routes within the city. Restaurants, museums, art galleries, fashion shops, tree lined boulevards,
boutiques, taco stands, and the haute and demi mondes are present in Mexico City. But beneath its riveting facade, is an endearing and captivating city that has a magnetism unfound in other North American cities. With some patience, the city's engaging history and cosmopolitan air compensate for its glaring urban character.

Few cities on earth can match Mexico City for historic grandeur. Its tumultuous past encompasses every phase of Mexican history. It is unique in the Western Hemisphere as a colorful and compelling mosaic of pre-Columbian, European colonial, and modern eras. It is special in the Americas on several counts: foremost is its staging of one of the world's great human dramas.

PERSONAL TIPS: If considered in general, I thinks Mexico City cannot be judged as a beautiful city. Its crowds, size and traffic often turn it into a mess that's hard to get out of. But talking about atmosphere and personal experience, Mexico City is a great and funny place, a must see for those wishing to get a complete overview of whole Mexico.

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HISTORY

Mexico City's streets feature a wonderful mixture of modern and colonial buildings. Mexicans are constantly reminded of their past, and they are encouraged not to forget it.

Its origin goes back thousands of years to the legend of Quetzalcoatl - the mystical "White Feathered Serpent" God who led a tribe of nomad warriors to "an island on a lake where an eagle was devouring a serpent while perched on a
cactus". That settlement became the city of Tenochtitlán - home of the Aztec warriors in the
early 1500's who were conquered by Cortés. It was a city of magnificent palaces, temples, and markets and was inhabited by some 200,000 people.

The Spanish crown, led by Hernán Cortés, conquered the Aztec Empire in 1521. Colonial rule was very oppressive and the primary goal of the Spanish government was to drain as much of Mexico's natural resources as possible. It was not until the early 1800s when Mexico began its long, hard quest for independence - which is gained in 1821.

Mexico's troubles were not over. Internal fighting among interest groups, plus a two invasions (one by France and the other by the United States), kept the nation from achieving the peace and tranquillity it desired. Poverty, income distribution and economic development were problems that could not be resolved. Visionary leaders, like Benito Juarez, struggled to unite the country and lead it on a course of development. Despite his best intentions, Juarez died before he could achieve his goals.

Juarez was succeeded by Porfirio Díaz, who ruled Mexico with an iron fist for decades. His vision - "much administration, little politics" - was based on the belief that politics and politicians were the problem, not the solution, with Mexico. While he was successful in building railroads and luring foreign investment, fundamental problems in Mexico (such as justice, wages and political representation) were never solved.

A bloody revolution beginning in 1910 unseated Díaz, who left Mexico for France (where he died and is still buried). Since then, and under different names, the country has been ruled by a party called the PRI. The origin of it is that institutions (such as peasant farmers, urban workers, business, etc.) should form the foundation of the party. Hence, the PRI has managed to hold onto power via this philosophy, as well as a lot of other goodies used by politicians around the world - money, graft, patronage and corruption.

Today, Mexico is working on political and electoral reforms that should open the process. It is believed that in 1997, when Mexico holds its mid-term elections, the two major opposition parties could hold a majority of seats in the lower chamber of Congress - a first for the nation.

MAKING SENSE OF IT

Mexico City is a federal district, much like Washington, D.C., and is technically not a state. It is the seat of the federal government. Situated in the Valley of Mexico, Mexico City is surrounded by the State of Mexico. The entire Valley of Mexico (which includes the Federal District, the State of Mexico and the State of Morelos) has about 20 million inhabitants.

Mexico City can be roughly compared to New York City's boroughs Ñ, only a little crazier. The city itself is divided into general political zones called "delegaciones"; today, there are 16 of these areas and are listed in City View. Each delegation is further subdivided into "colonias," which people tend to use as a geographic orientation. (Be careful, however, since there may be more than one colonia with the same name in Mexico City.)

TOURIST INFORMATIONS

Mexico City is a place to love and loathe. It has everything you might expect from the world's largest metropolitan area and second largest city. Like mysterious ingredients added to a bubbling cauldron, the best and the worst of the country have been combined in the high valley where Mexico City sprawls. The result is a polluted and bustling cosmopolitan megalopolis of music and noise, brown air and green parks, colonial palaces, world-renowned museums and spreading slums.

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DOWNTOWN

ZOCALO

The historic center of Mexico City is the Plaza de la Constitución, more commonly known as the Zócalo. The plaza was first paved in the 1520s by Cortés with stones from the ruins of the temples and palaces of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlán, the site on which Mexico City was built. Tenochtitlán was built in the middle of a lake, so many of Mexico City's older
buildings and churches are sinking into the boggy ground on which they were constructed. Filling the entire eastern side of the Zócalo is the Palacio Nacional (National Palace), built on the site of an Aztec palace and formerly used to house the viceroys of New Spain. It is now home to the offices of the president, to a museum and to the dramatic revolutionary murals of Diego Rivera which chronicle Mexico's history. The Catedral Metropolitana, on the northern side of the Zócalo, was built by the Spaniards in the 1520s on the site of the Aztecs' Tzompantli or Wall of Skulls (a sort of altar on which the skulls of the sacrificed were placed). Just east of the cathedral are the remnants of the Templo Mayor, the Aztecs' principal temple, and the stunning museum which houses the artifacts discovered at the site. To the east is the National Palace, where the Juarez museum and offices of the Presidency are located. The center patio, which is open to the public, contains Diego Rivera's stirring mural "Epic of the Mexican People in their Struggle for Freedom and Independence." On the west side of the Zócalo is the 200-year-old National Pawnshop and an arcade lined with jewelry shops. The southern flank is occupied by the twin buildings of Mexico's Department of the Federal District, or city hall.

PERSONAL TIPS: This is probably the only beautiful place in Mexico City, the heart of the town. What I enjoyed most was the market and its people, but if you don’ t like crowds, AVOID IT!

TEMPLO MAYOR RUINS AND MUSEUM

Off the northeast corner of the Zócalo stand the impressive ruins of the Great Temple of the Aztecs, destroyed by the conquistadores, who used the stone and debris to build the cathedral nearby. The temple marks the ceremonial center of Tenochtitlán, capital of the Aztec empire and larger than any city in Europe at the time of the Spanish Conquest. An island city about a square mile, it contained temples, palaces and pyramids. The Great Temple consists of seven superimposed structures; the most recent constructions date from 1487. Excavations begun in 1981 have unearthed major archaeological pieces. The museum is a beautifully designed multilevel building with dramatically displayed artifacts extracted from the ruins and a large model of the city of Tenochtitlán.

MADERO

Along this avenue are some of the city's oldest and most distinguished buildings. Worth visiting are the ornate 18th-century Iturbide Palace (F-22), reminiscent of Agustin Iturbide's short-lived reign as emperor (1821-3), open to the public for temporary exhibits, the Church of San Francisco (F-22), begun in 1524 shortly after the conquest, and the nearly 400-year-old House of Tiles (F-21), now occupied by Sanborns, with its Orozco mural along the stairwell.

PALACE OF FINE ARTS

Juarez and Eje Lazaro Cardenas (E-21). Mexico's principal opera house, Palacio de Bellas Artes, is an architectural masterpiece inside and out. It has sunk steadily and, luckily, evenly since it was begun in 1900. Interrupted by the Revolution, it was completed 34 years later. Its Tiffany stained-glass curtain is a spectacular depiction of the Valley of
Mexico. Open 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

ALAMEDA PARK

The Alameda, which was once an Aztec marketplace, is now a pleasant and verdant park. The streets around the Alameda are lined with colonial mansions, skyscrapers, lively cafés, restaurants, shops and markets. Other must sees include the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City's largest park, which is home to a handful of museums, amusement parks and the official residence of the president; the Basilica de Guadalupe, the church built on the spot where Mexico's patron saint was seen in a vision; the colonial houses of San Ángel; the Cuicuilco pyramid; and the canals of Xochimilco.

MUSEUMS

Franz Mayer. Av. Hidalgo 45 (E-20). A splendid collection of art and art objects in a handsomely restored 18th-century building with a delightful patio. National Art Museum. Tacuba 8 (E-21). Art from pre Hispanic to modern times is displayed in a magnificent turn-of-the-century building. Diego Rivera Mural Museum. Plaza de la Solidaridad (F-19). This museum was specially built to house Rivera's famous mural "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park." Jose Luis Cuevas Museum. Academia 13 (E-25). A 16th-century convent now showcases Cuevas' collection of paintings by 20th-century Latin American artists and works by the master himself, one of Mexico's most prominent contemporary artists. The museum's biggest draws are the Erotic Room and a hall displaying irreverent caricatures of Cuevas by fellow artists. Open weekdays, except Wed., noon to 8 p.m. Sat. and Sun., 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mexico City Museum. Pino Suarez 30 (G-24). Housed in a colonial masterpiece, this museum documents the history of the nation's capital since pre Hispanic times. San Carlos Museum. Puente del Alvarado and Ramon Arizpe (E-17). A fine selection of European art, part of which was donated by the King of Spain to the San Carlos Academy of Art in the 18th century.

MARKETS

The Lagunilla (or Thieves) Market s at its best on Sundays, selling everything you can imagine both indoors and at outdoor stalls. La Ciudadela, south of Av. Juarez on Balderas, is one of the city's most colorful and inviting handicrafts markets. The Centro Artesanal is a rather grim, government run market on Ayuntamiento near Dolores; with fixed prices mostly. While not downtown, the Insurgentes Market, in Zona Rosa , has large selections and prices that can be negotiated. The Buenavista, near the train station, is a large wharehouse-type place with set prices on all types of Mexican goods.

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UPTOWN

ZONA ROSA

Southeast of Reforma, between Insurgentes and the Independence Monument ("The Angel") (F-7). A 24-square-block area of smart boutiques, nightspots, gourmet restaurants and fast-food stops. Struggling to conserve its chic image after the advent of the Metro, it is a bit like Hollywood Boulevard on weekends. It is flanked on the northwest by Paseo de la Reforma, built by Emperor Maximilian and modeled after Paris' Champs Elysees.

PERSONAL TIPS: Despite I spent only a few days in Mexico City, this has been the only area where I could find a good selection of restaurants and a few western style shops, especially in Nice and Hamburg street. But don’ t expect any elegant or quietly walk able area- we’ re still in Mexico City!

CHAPULTEPEC PARK

2,100 acres filled with woods, fields, playgrounds, man-made lakes with small boats for rent, a fine zoo and an amusement park with a huge roller coaster. The park is also home to the museums of Anthropology, Natural History, Modern Art, National History, and the Papalote Children's Museum and Rufino Tamayo Museum. The presidential residence, Los Pinos, is here also. Reforma Boulevard continues through the park to Las Lomas, one of the the city's plush residential areas.

CHAPULTEPEC CASTLE

Dominating Chapultepec Park, atop a hill, the former residence of Emperor Maximilian today houses the National Museum of History. The castle was begun late in the 18th century by one of the last viceroys and expanded by Maximilian of Hapsburg when he made it his residence. Just off the path leading to the castle is the circular Gallery of National History, a showplace depicting Mexico's struggle for freedom. Murals by Orozco, Siqueiros and O'Gorman. Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY

A pleasant stroll up Reforma from the castle, it is considered one of the finest and most beautiful museums of its kind in the world. Constructed around a patio, it contains sections devoted to the ancient people of all regions of Mexico. The exhibits on the first floor include the famed Aztec Calendar Stone, unofficial symbol of the Mexican nation. The huge statue of Tláloc, the Rain God, stands like a sentry at the Reforma entrance. The second floor contains fascinating ethnological displays of rural Mexican life. Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sundays 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Personal Tips: I usually don’ t like museums, but if you’ re going to visit Mexico’s archaeological beauties, find a good guide and maybe drop in, it might be fundamental for the whole trip.

RUFINO TAMAYO MUSEUM

One of Mexico's most renowned 20th century artists, Tamayo donated many of his own paintings as well as his collection of some 300 works by many other outstanding artists. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

An excellent permanent collection of modern Mexican masters, including Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, Velasco, Siqueiros and Tamayo, as well as rotating exhibits of national and international artists. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

CENTRO CULTURAL/ARTE CONTEMPORANEO

Campos Eliseos and Jorge Eliot, next to the Presidente Inter-Continental hotel. This 4 story atrium serves as a showcase for a magnificent permanent collection of modern art, andworks by some of Mexico's most exciting artists and photographers, and acclaimed temporary exhibits. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, Wed. until 8 p.m. Free Sun. and Wed.

PAPALOTE CHILDREN'S MUSEUM

Second Section of Chapultepec Park; take a taxi. One of the largest and most technologically sophisticated "touch and do" museums in the world with 250 interactive exhibits. Open 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 to 6 p.m. daily.

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GETTING AROUND THE CITY

"How do all of these people get around?" This expression is frequently heard when describing traffic and transportation in Mexico City on a good day. Throw in a substantial march, and the words "traffic congestion" does not come close to giving an accurate image of what takes place on the streets. This situation is not new, so Mexicans have developed a variety of ways to get around town. City View has a complete listing of transportation methods - from the subway to taxis- that are available for people to consider.

From the airport, look for booths outside of baggage claim with a large TAXI or Transportación sign. Avoid all other airport taxi solicitations. Set rates apply to all areas of the city, with most fares running around $10 per trip. Tip 10% of the fare if driver handles your luggage. Around town Mexico City offers several choices.....

Taxis:

All cabs are not equal, particularly in Mexico City where several options are available. Outside most hotels and visitor attractions are larger (more expensive!) unmarked sedans with English speaking drivers and guides. Cruising the streets are taxis of at least three distinctions:

ORANGE & WHITE, four door cabs offering comfort and metered rates;

GREEN & WHITE, newer VW bugs with cheap, metered rates;

YELLOW & WHITE, older VW bugs (soon to be phased out in favor of the green bugs which use unleaded fuel) which offer the cheapest metered rates of all.

In any case, cabs are CHEAP and easy to find. Rates may be higher on Sundays and in the evening. Tipping is generally not expected.

Bus:

For 40 centavos (a little more than a dime!) you can go about anywhere in the city. Not recommended for non Spanish speakers or novice Mexico travelers. A popular route connects the Zócalo with Chapultepec park, two of the principal visitor areas. In Mexico City phone 525- 9380 for route information.

Subway:

Yes, Mexico City has one of the finest systems in the world. For 40 centavos you can cruise the entire city in rapid efficiency on board quiet, French designed trains. There are eight lines covering nearly 175 kms. of track. Stations are clean and attractive; some have special attractions. The Zócalo station, for instance, features huge models of Mexico City
during three historic periods; the Bellas Artes station has replicas of archaeological relics; the Pino Suarez station has an actual Aztec temple unearthed during station construction. Best to avoid rush hours, and be cautious with your belongings. Hours are 6am-12pm.

Rental Car:

Strict anti pollution laws restricting vehicle usage in Mexico City on certain days of the week makes car rentals less worthy than somewhere else. This law is strictly enforced and uniformly applied- even to foreign visitors arriving in their
own private autos or rental cars. Heavy fines apply (up to $300 U.S. or vehicle impoundment).

AIRPORT

Airport Name: Benito Juarez International Airport
Code: MEX
Location: Four miles east of the downtown historic center
Facilities: A truly fine international facility, Mexico City Airport offers dozens of shops selling an amazing variety of domestic and imported items. An excellent art gallery occupies a portion of the main terminal lobby. There are several bars and snack stands, two restaurants, several bank outlets, an excellent visitor info center (including Hotel Association Offices in the baggage claim areas offering local information and hotel bookings), and impeccably clean, shiny marble floors throughout.

In the end, Mexico City is a nation unto itself. A visitor never has enough time to explore it all and enjoy it all in one brief trip.

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AROUND MEXICO CITY

NORTH:

TEOTIHUACAN

Only 50 km north-east of the city center lie the ruins of Mexico's biggest ancient city, Teotihuacan, which probably boasted 200,000 inhabitants at its peak in the 6th century. Teotihuacan was the capital of Mexico's first great civilization, and the remains testify to its pre-eminence. Travelers who can avoid the touts will be in awe of the Avenue of the Dead, the 70m high Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon, and the Palace of the Quetzal Butterfly. Tula, the probable capital of the Toltec civilization, is 65 km north of Mexico City. The site is best known for its fearsome 4m high stone warriors. Teotihuacan is one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in the world. The Sun and Moon pyramids, the Ciudadela, or Citadel, with its Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Plumed Serpent), and the Palace of Quetzalpapalotl (Plumed Butterfly) are the major constructions along the nearly mile long Avenue of the Dead. Two museums, one near the main entrance, another by the Sun Pyramid, display regional artifacts. Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. We recommend morning tours so there's plenty of time to look around. One leaves from the Presidente Inter-Continental hotel.

PERSONAL TIPS: Teotihuacan is, according to my experience, the most majestic and breath-taking site in Mexico, and one of the most impressive I’ ve ever seen. As a suggestion, if you have to choose only one of them, climb the Moon Pyramid: it’ s where the picture above has been shot from; the only way to really enjoy the majesty of
Teotihuacan.

PLAZA OF THE THREE CULTURES

On a single site, pre Hispanic Aztec ruins, a Spanish colonial church and a modern skyscraper represent the major periods of Mexican history.

PERSONAL TIPS: I really think that this is a horrible place, concerning sightseeing and Architecture beauty. But as you’ ll come to know it has been the place where Aztecs have been definitely destroyed, where ruins have been used to build a fortress style church, where (with a true Barrack style buildings background) in the late sixties lots of desaparecidos where killed by the army, you’ ll start realizing how Mexico's troubled and unlucky history has developed.

SHRINE OF GUADALUPE

A large, impressive complex, and one of the holiest places in Mexico. This is where the Virgin of Guadalupe is said to have appeared before a humble Indian named Juan Diego, an event credited with precipitating the conversion of the Indians to Catholicism. The old building is a museum, with an excellent collection of ex-votos, while the new one houses the sacred image of the Virgin, self pictured on the Indian's Poncho. Basilica open 6 a.m. to 8:45 p.m. daily.

PERSONAL TIPS: If you like sanctuaries and holy places, you’ ll enjoy Guadelupes Excesses. Otherwise (this is what I suggest), AVOID IT!

SOUTH:
COYOACAN

A charming residential area where Hernán Cortés and several of his captains built their homes at the time of the conquest. The plaza is especially lively and colorful on Sunday.

DOLORES OLMEDO MUSEUM

Av. Mexico 5843 in Coyoacan (C-51), near the La Noria Tren Ligero station. The most representative collection of works by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo displayed in a beautiful, ramblingstate-turned-museum. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

FRIDA KAHLO MUSEUM

Londres 247 in Coyoacan (G-48). The charming home shared by the artist and her husband, Diego Rivera, with works by them and others. Open 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m.

POLIFORUM CULTURAL SIQUEIROS

Adjacent to Mexico's World Trade Center, this stunning tribute to Mexico's famed muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros houses art galleries, a theater, a handicrafts market and Siqueiros' largest mural.

SAN ANGEL

A picturesque residential zone containing many beautiful colonial style homes. Site of the Diego Rivera Studio/Museum, the former Carmen Convent, the famous Bazaar Sabado market and Saturday art fair.

UNIVERSITY CITY

The 800-acre national university boasts outstanding murals and mosaics by some of Mexico's greatest artists, ultra-modern buildings, an Olympic stadium, cultural center, and Nezahualcoyotl Hall, North America's first wrap-around concert venue, ranked as one of the world's finest. Some 300,000 students are registered here.

XOCHIMILCO

At the famed "floating gardens" dating from Aztec times, colorful gondolas alternately carrying visitors, mariachi musicians or marimba bands, as well as purveyors of tacos and beer, pass each other as they are propelled along the canals. Crowded on Sunday. Tour with a group if possible.

CUERNAVANCA

Just 85km south of the capital is Cuernavaca, a city whose mild climate has attracted the wealthy and fashionable seeking relief from Mexico City since colonial times. Much of the city's elegance is hidden behind high walls and courtyards, but a number of residences have been turned into galleries, hotels and restaurants. The city is not for those on a tight budget but it's luxuries make it a favorite place for visitors keen to enrol in Spanish language courses.

TAXCO

The old silver mining town of Taxco, 180km south-west of Mexico City, is a gorgeous colonial antique, and one of the most picturesque and pleasant places in Mexico. It clings to a steep hillside, has Labyrinthine narrow cobbled streets, engagingly well worn buildings and delightful plazas. The entire town has been declared a national historic monument.

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PLEASE REPORT ANY MISTAKES, so that I can correct my job as soon as I can. If you have any kind of suggestions or further information to enrich my guides, don' t hesitate and contact me.

patat_online@geocities.com