MEXICO-CHAPTER
3
INTRODUCTION:
When you cross the Rio Usumacinta
into Yucatán, you are crossing into the realm of the Maya. Heirs
to a glorious and often violent history, the Maya live today where their
ancestors lived a millennium ago. Yucatán has surprising diversity:
archaeological sites galore, colonial cities, seaside resorts and quiet
coastlines populated mostly by tropical birds. There are impressive Mayan
sites near Mérida at Uxmal and Chichén Itzá. The coastal
state of Quintana Roo, with its islands and white sand beaches, attracts
sun loving tourists.
The recent popularity of the Yucatán
Peninsula has brought increased awareness of the Peninsula's seaside treasures.
However, the Peninsula also is home to one of Mexico's most fascinating
inland destinations, the charming city of Mérida and the emerging
Mundo Maya region.
The beaches along the Yucatán
coast between Cancun and Tulum are some of the most beautiful in the world.
Xcaret has both tumbledown Mayan ruins and a beautiful inlet or caleta,
filled with tropical marine life. Bring your snorkel. A few meters inland
is the cenote, a limpid pool in a limestone cave, which is also an excellent
place for a swim. Yal-Ku Lagoon, one of the best spots for snorkeling,
is not even sign posted; you may have the beautiful crystal clear waters
to yourself.
MÉRIDA:
Despite its size (population approaching
1 million) and somewhat unwieldy urban inconveniences, this is one of Mexico's
most hospitable and nostalgic colonial cities. Similar to the city of Oaxaca,
Mérida combines colonial era architecture with a rich Indian heritage.
Attractions center around the city's lovely Plaza Mayor, bordered by graceful
colonial buildings and shade trees. Many of the city's low slung, weathered
buildings have gleaming white and pastel exteriors. Most date to the 17th
and 18th centuries.
Numerous museums and markets bring
alive the area's fascinating Mayan culture, while surrounding the city
are some of the world's most important ancient archaeological sites. The
cities of Chichén Itzá, For visitors, Mérida's attractions
include historic sightseeing, excellent shopping (Mayan art, hammocks,
unique native crafts) and a leisurely tropical pace. Lodging ranges from
colonial inns to modern high rises. Though somewhat less attuned to the
comings and goings of international visitors, the city's friendly inhabitants
make visitors feel truly welcome.
Note: While mass tourism may bypass
Mérida, the nearby coastal city of Progreso is making its bid to
lure beach bound vacationers. Hotel development at Yucalpetén and
Nuevo Yucatán is progressing steadily.
The city is also Mexico's most
important gateway for exploration of Mayan archaeology. Mérida is
surrounded by one of the richest collection of ancient ruins found anywhere
in the world. Most sites are easily explored as part of escorted day-trips
to nearby archaeological zones.
In fact Mérida is Mexico's
unofficial "headquarters" for an ambitious multinational promotional effort
known as the Mundo Maya, or Mayan World. This effort aims at unifying the
tourism development, protection, and promotion of a region rich in Mayan
archaeology, ecotourism opportunities, and cultural diversity. Four countries
have joined Mexico in this unprecedented effort (Belize, Honduras, El Salvador,
and Guatemala). The program strives to celebrate this 2,000 year old culture
by preserving not only the area's splendid ruins, but also the area's rich
ethnology. It hopes to use tourism as a vehicle to promote greater economic
self-sufficiency, encourage further study of the accomplishment of the
Mayan people, and improve visitor facilities.
TOURIST INFORMATIONS:
Mérida is compact and easily
explored on foot. There are over a dozen ground operators offering half
day city tours that take in museums, parks, and monuments. Most exploration
starts at the zócalo, described below. (Note that all east-west
streets carry even numbered names, while north south streets carry odd
numbered names.)
DOWNTOWN
The heart of the city is the imposing
and well tended Plaza Mayor. The plaza is surrounded by fine example of
colonial architecture. Its wheel and spokes layout, Shaped wrought iron
benches (known as confidenciales) and carefully manicured hedges invite
visitors to stroll and linger beneath the plaza's ancient laurel trees.
Surrounding the Plaza are four buildings of
interest.
Catedral de San Idelfonso: On the
plaza's eastern side. Built between 1561-98, the imposing fortress-like,
twin spired structure was build from stones of a demolished Mayan temple.
It is one of Mexico's oldest churches. The city's most holy object, a statue
known as Cristo de las Ampollas is housed here.
Palacio de Gobierno: On the north
side. Not to be missed are the vibrant murals - over 25 years in the making
- by Fernando Pacheco depicting Yucatán history.
Palacio Municipal: On the square's
western flank. This building dates originally to 1542 (refurbished in 1733
and 1855) and is noted for its handsome clock tower.
Another of the zócalo's
premier attractions is the Casa de Montejo, the former home of the Montejo
family, and now a bank branch. Note the interesting bas relief on the facade
depicting Montejo (the founder of Mérida) standing atop the heads
of the conquered Mayans.
Other downtown points of interest
are the University of Yucatán (founded in 1618), La Ermita de Santa
Isabel (a pretty 18th century church with lovely gardens) the Teatro Peón
Contreras (a splendid theater of neo-classic Italian design), the Museum
of Popular Art (devoted to exquisite Yucatecan arts & crafts) and the
Parque Centenario (with its
charming zoo and miniature train).
There are also several quaint parks
within a few blocks of the zócalo, including Plaza Santa Lucia (frequent
cultural events), Parque Hidalgo, and Plaza de la Madre.
Paseo Montejo: Many of Mérida's
colonial treasures stretch along stately Paseo Montejo, an eight block
tree lined boulevard modeled after the Champs Elysees. Its French, Italian
and Spanish-Moorish mansions and chalets (some of which are now restaurants
and shops) are stately reminders of the city's opulent past. It is one
of Mexico's most bizarre attractions. Do not miss the massive Canton Palace,
an Italian Renaissance style building and former residence to Yucatán
governors. It now houses the fine Museum of Anthropology and Natural History.
The museum houses fascinating Mayan artifacts
including exquisite pottery and
sculptures.
PERSONAL TIP: I can say I enjoyed
Mèrida. It is exactly what you can expect from a Latin American
City: crowds, smog, music and fun. If you want to shop, I suggest to visit
only markets run by the Municipality, but if you like crowds and noise,
just have a walk by the other ones. You won’ t find lots of quality good
priced items, yet they’ re funnier.
CHICHÉN
ITZÁ:
Mighty Chichén Itzá
is one of the largest and best maintained sites in Mexico, and is a joy
to visit. It is actually two cities, one that was ruled by the Mayans during
the sixth to the tenth century, the other a Toltec-Mayan city that emerged
around the year 1000 a.d. Most of the prominent buildings were developed
during the city's "rebirth" under Toltec rule. It covers an area of 4 1/2
km and is located 120 km from Mérida and 203 km west of Cancun.
Chichén had two principal
wells, or cenote: one sacred and the other profane. The profane well was
used for everyday needs. The sacred well, a largish 195 feet across by
120 feet deep, was used in worship, and offerings were continually made
to
it. Divers have retrieved skeletons
and many ritual objects from its depths.
The towering Castillo displays
a mixture of Toltec and Mayan influences, and is fraught with cosmological
symbolism. Its four sides contain 365 steps (depicting the solar year),
52 panels (for each year in the Mayan century), and 18 terraces (for the
eighteen months in the religious year). During the Fall and Spring
Equinox (March and September) the sun's shadow forms an
enormous serpents body on the face
of the pyramid know as "El Castillo." Quite a sight!
There is an interesting temple
inside the Castillo, accessible via a narrow stairway. The enormous ball
court is the largest ever discovered, and is lined with fascinating carvings.
Chichén's Ball Court is the largest and finest in Mexico. At 272
feet by
199 feet, it's about as long as
a football field and little bit wider. On the south side is the tribune,
a raised platform that may have been used for dance performances. Maybe
even half-time entertainment.
El Caracol means giant conch shell,
which is apt given its circular, spiraling design. The windows in observatory
dome are aligned with certain stars on specific dates. This is where the
priests decreed the dates for rituals, celebrations, corn planting,
harvests. This building especially
displays the brilliance and precision of Mayan astronomy.
The site also contains a cenote,
or sacred well, an Observatory, the imposing Temple of Warriors, and the
Nunnery, along with dozens of other fascinating structures. Not to be missed!
Count on spending at least an entire day here.
PERSONAL TIPS: To tell the truth,
I expected something more from Chichén Itzá. El Castillo
is not to be missed, beautiful, but the rest is not in a very good state,
with the exception of the Ball Court and the Observatory. This doesn’t
mean this is a place to avoid. It’ s simply great, but I expected
it to be the best among Mexican sites, yet it isn’ t.
UXMAL:
This Classic/ post Classic Mayan
city is one of the great showpieces of Mayan architecture and artistic
refinement. Uxmal means "thrice built" reflecting the city's many phases
of development. Throughout you will see clean, uncluttered lines and symmetry,
and purist examples of the ornate and whimsical "Puuc" style. The whole
site has been expertly restored. The city's main temple is the Pyramid
of the Magician, an unusual oval structure. The Nunnery is a exceptional
example of Puuc ornamentation. The Governor's Palace is a majestic 322
foot long master-piece of intricate lattice-work and mosaics.
Located 48 miles south of Mérida,
Uxmal is accessible via several escorted tours. Time permitting, do not
miss the superb light and sound show performed in English and Spanish evenings
during the winter months.
PERSONAL TIPS: Uxmal is great,
I enjoyed it a lot. Maybe that’ s because the architecture is different,
maybe because there are no crowds or maybe as it’ s still in a good state.
Anyhow, it’ s really worth visiting. I suggest you to climb the never-ending
pyramid, only if you’ ll find the courage to come back to earth!
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