A bicyclist and his attraction Protest site near US Interest section A house in Old Havana

Dec. 11, 1999 1:00 am- The quiet arrival    The Northern American neighbors sneaked into the Jose Marti Airport past midnight when the place was empty.  The bus didn't show up for some time.  Just as I entered the hotel lobby at nearly 3am, music jousted at me.  Live music? I thought. The rattling of the maracas, crackling of the bongo, thumping of the bass,  piercing  of the flute, twanging of guitar and careening of people  took up at a corner of the hotel.   I sat down, had a drink and talked with my travel mates until 4am.    2:00pm- Riding in Havana    We boarded these rusty bikes that were donated to the Gran Caribe Bike Club.  The tour was led by Rivero Valladades Rivero, a former university professor and current president of the club.  From their base,  two hours ride from the hotel, they harnessed the mix-breed bicycles to a rig system that took some time to assemble and made the trip across town. Human power is the most reliable energy source in Cuba.    We rode around town all afternoon, going from La Playa to Vedado. At the impressive site of Havana National Cemetery, I had a chance to witness the location where Tomas Alea filmed “Death of a Bureaucrat.”  The surrounding reflected the same image appeared on screen which was captured decades ago.  I saw a funeral and thought it might be  fun to see a slap stick comedy where people are gitting into a skirmish.    Passing from China Town to Centro Havana, the caravan stopped at an artists district.   Artworks and paintings covered the neighborhood, it looked like an outdoor studio.  Heading into Old Havana, we encountered the Capitolio, an equivalent of Capitol Hill.  There we were greeted by a line of old American classic cars spitting out black fume.  The Cuban government subsidized the maintenance of these remnants to cater to the tourists.  And they still crawled this city like old ghosts from the past.    Rivero strapped a huge Cuban flag behind the seat like a knight leading his troop through a Castillian fortress.   A couple Cuban kids tagged along.  One boy who was barely taller than the bike took the handle bar while a smaller boy rode on the back wheel.  The youngsters playfully jabbed  the flapping flag while Rivero swung his arms, dramatizing history to us.     On the return, we encountered a magnificent sunset.  Passing along on the Malecon- a seawall that coasted Havana and the Gulf of Mexico- we approached the US Interests section.  Signages and banners stood alone near the barren stage.  This was the site wher Cuban held major protest earlier.  A huge Cuban flag draped in the background, but no one was around.  A billboard said: "Return little Elian to his desk" while a photo of his classmate stared at us as we slowly rode by the vacant lot.  10:00pm- Nightlife in Havana    The bus dropped us off at "La Rampa" near the old Hilton, now called Hotel Habana Libre.   A smaller group of us consisting of four planned to attend a party host by the students at University of Havana. But when we got there the  wrought iron gate kept us out.  The street was dark and there was no one inside.  Jeremy, the only one with a credential Spanish, asked a group of citizens passing by.  They confirmed the place but said the party goes on tomorrow night instead.     After some cordial suggestion from the local people, we embarked on the next destination.   The second place was also hidden in a dark neighborhood.  The shortage of streetlight presented difficulties for the local as well as new comers.  For strangers, it was challenging to find a place they've never been to.  Moreover, street names are carved into blocks of concrete sitting two feet off the ground.  Only who knew could find it at night.      We asked a Cuban couple walking down the street for direction.  They helped us look for this place but it was undiscovered.  Without success, we decided to let them lead us to a place they know.  It was calm and peaceful when walked the streets of Havana with Yamilla and Eduardo.   Both were in their twenties.   They are kins but have different fathers.   When I asked him what does he wish for, Eduardo replied an ending of the trade embargo.  Another wish Eduardo has was a Western girlfriend.  He especially fonded of American women.  Yamilla spoke more about the Cuban pride.  She explained that eventhough being in a difficult position they are still keeping their wits and spirits.    We arrived back on the Malecon at a place called "Ditu" after a walk that seemed to last an eternity.   While waiting for the club to get hopping, we went across the street and hung out by the sea wall. The Malecon runs along the boulevard covering the northern coast of Havana.  It is a place where young Cubans spent weekends with their lovers, a place to get a breeze listening to the wave or just staring into the darkness wondering about 90 miles up north.