Once in London

Spend the £2.25 and buy a map of London (A to Zed makes a good one.) Although London streets are well marked, you will get lost without the map. I guarantee it. I still find that if in an unfamiliar section of town that if I guess at which direction is correct, it will always the wrong way. This is a result of London's streets meeting at odd angles, which goes back to the days when London was a northern outpost of the Roman Empire known as Londinium. The Romans, like other ancient cultures used convoluted street patterns to confuse invaders. It works.

The other essential will be a map of the Underground (called the Tube, not the subway which to a Brit means an underpass). These are available for the asking from any ticket seller in any of the Tube stations. Also available are guides to the buses for central London (or other outlying areas), since the Underground and buses are managed by the same organization. With the exception of King's Road in Chelsea, which isn't served by the Tube, the Tube is the preferable method of transport. The Tube is much faster than the bus because of the traffic on London streets.

One reason to take the bus might be to see London's sights above ground. Another reason, if it is after midnight and the Tube has stopped running, there are a series of N-buses that run infrequently throughout the night until the normal routes resume in the morning.

Beware of pickpockets, which London has been known for since Charles Dickens' time. They are still around, favoring crowded areas, such as Tube stations and trains during rush hour, Oxford Street on a Saturday, Covent Garden or Leicester Square. Do not keep your wallet in your back pocket.

Money, Weights and Measures

The official currency, at least until the UK decides they wish to switch to the euro (which is still the subject of much debate), is the pound, designated by the symbol £. Since I've been travelling to London (Feb '98), the value of the pound has been from $1.39 to $1.72. Exchange rate, as of Sept 18, '00, is roughly $1.39 to the pound or 0.72 pence to the dollar, although the pound has been unusually weak against the dollar for the last month or so - the more normal rate has been $1.55 to 1.70 to the pound. Click here for current exchange rate. Coins come in £2, £1, 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p and 1p. Notes come in £5, £10, £20, £50 and £100. If you let your change accumulate, it will add up to a significant amount of money (and you'll learn why they're called pounds.)

Ostensibly, the UK is on the metric system, but speaking with the locals will lead one to highly doubt this. Distances and speeds are posted in miles. Liquid (such as beer) is measured in imperial pints (which are 19 oz. rather than 16 oz. - remember that when you're in the pub). When I asked a London colleague why they can't conform like the rest of Europe, the reply I got was, "We're not the rest of Europe, mate!" Additionally, human and animal weights are measured in stone; one stone equals 14 pounds. However, gas is sold by the liter and official temperatures are given in Celsius (although the locals and some of the papers still use Fahrenheit).

Voltage is 230 volts, 50 cycles AC. Outlets have little switches on the side of the plug to turn outlet on or off, red indicator indicates outlet is on. If you're bringing electronic devices from home, bring a transformer/converter to convert electricity and READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO USE IT! A colleague of mine burned out her curling iron and smoked out the flat no later than 10 minutes after arrival, because she converted but didn't transform and was trying to shoot 230 volts into a device meant for 110.

Most computers have a transformer already built into the power supply, so only an outlet converter is necessary. The transformer will be a bulky rectangular compartment halfway up the cord. On this rectangular box is a voltage and cycles range. If the range is 100 to 240, you're covered. If you're using the modem on your computer, be aware that there is no global phone outlet standard, and you will may need a UK phone adapter for your American phone connector. International standard hotels may have an American fax/modem outlet in the room.

Hot water in the UK is very, very hot. One of my London colleagues complains about the tepid water in his hotel in the US when he visits. Before getting in the shower, make sure the temperature of the water is okay. Otherwise, you will learn why it's called a boiler.

Transportation Primer

Walking
The most basic form of transport is the easiest way to get around, once equipped with you're A to Zed map of London. The most important thing to remember is to LOOK RIGHT when crossing the street. If you're from North America, the traffic will be coming from the opposite direction. Had I not pulled her out of the way, Erin would have been flattened on her first day in London by a car coming around a blind corner. Maybe follow the advice your mom gave you and look both ways. Crosswalks in London have signs painted on the curb for stupid Yankee and Continental tourists, which instruct pedestrians which way to look. Pedestrians from the US should remember London drivers favor having the foot firmly on the accelerator or the brake at all times which equates to faster driving than back home (unless you live in Houston or Phoenix).

Streets are well marked with painted signs indicating street and post code (e.g. SW3) on the sides of buildings rather than free standing street signs. Guesswork may be necessary if the building on the corner is undergoing construction and is covered with scaffolding or a tarp.

Taxis
Taxis are abundant in London (unless it's midnight on a Friday evening or Friday afternoon in the rain) and may be hailed or caught at taxi stands in front of major hotels. A taxi may be ordered in advance by calling 020.7272.0272 or 020.7253.5000.

Due to limited number and difficulty of obtaining a taxi license, your driver will be more knowledgeable and honest than just about anywhere else in the world. To be licensed in London, taxi drivers, as part of their apprenticeship must visit and memorize every street in Greater London on mopeds and then take a very rigorous test called "the Knowledge." Once licensed, taxi drivers must buy their vehicles, rather than pay a daily rental, like in the states. It frustrates British visitors to the US to no end when an American taxi driver can barely speak the language and does not know the location of their destination.

The London cabbie will be a good source of information with respect to recommendations of restaurants, and information on other sites/activities in town. If travelling alone, you may be asked who's going to be the next American president, your political philosophy and your thoughts on the UK joining the Euro. Doesn't matter what you say, as long as you have an opinion and you can support it. Normally, I get hit with these thought provoking questions on the way into town from Heathrow after turbulence has robbed me of any chance of sleep on my 10 hour flight. You may also get the driver's thoughts on these matters. A tip of 10% is normal in London and cabbies do expect to be tipped.

Underground (Tube)
The London Underground (the Tube) has an extensive network of lines that cover London and vicinity. Fares are determined by zone (one way in zone 1 is £1.50) and tickets may be purchased from ticket windows or ticket machines. Beware, prices subject to change! Fares have increased twice since March '98. Although always under fire from the media, the Underground is still the lifeline of transport in London, which is used by just about everyone. When purchasing tickets, it helps to have change for the machines, as there are not always manned ticket windows open and when there are, the lines can be horrendous. This is especially true when at a stop that's popular with tourists who are holding up lines by asking lots of questions (Knightsbridge, Hyde Park Corner and Tower Hill are notorious for this.)

Frequent users may purchase a weekly pass (which requires a passport photo, which can be taken at a self-service machine requiring £2.50 (June '98) of exact change). If you are traveling exclusively in zone 1, you may buy a "carnet" of 10 tickets for £11 (Feb '00). You can also buy an all-day pass good for zone 1 only, zones 1 and 2, or zones 1-6. Carry your ticket with you until the end of your ride or you may be fined £10 on the spot.

British Rail
British rail and its privatized spun-off subsidiaries, the "baby Brit Rails," have a network of lines that service the outlying areas of London not accessible by the Tube, making a car unnecessary. Brit Rail also accesses the rest of the UK and is the fastest way to get out of town. The trains are relatively inexpensive, and reasonably quick. London has several major stations, Waterloo, Paddington and Victoria being the busiest, and all accessible from the Tube.

Docklands Light Rail (DLR)
Serves the Docklands and East End neighborhoods to the East of the City, including the Canary Wharf complex. Relatively new, the cars travel above ground and are driver-less. Those familiar with San Francisco Muni streetcars will find it incredible that the same engineering firm that built DLR train cars also built new SF Muni street cars (former work, the latter don't - perhaps DLR spent more money.)

Automobile
Don't rent one to get around London. Parking alone (if you can find a place to park it) will make it 10 times more expensive then the Tube. If planning to explore the English countryside for an extended period, a car may be worthwhile if cost split among two or three people. In July of '00, petrol was running about 90p/liter ($5.00 per US gallon). Rental fees are more expensive than the States.

Have been warned by those who have rented cars in the UK that British roads are narrower and in worse repair than most industrial countries on the Continent (France, Italy and Germany) and that aggressive driving is to be expected.

Food and Drink

The days of British food being the fodder of laughter and snide jokes worldwide are over. During the 14 1/2 weeks I have spent in the UK, I have only occasionally had a bad meal. London has lots of restaurants of every possible ethnicity and flavor. There is a wide range of prices, so if one place seems overpriced, keep looking. Restaurants post their menus near the doorway. Takeaway (take-out) places are always less expensive. There are lots of restaurants in Soho, Covent Garden, Leicester Square (which is next to London's Chinatown) and Bayswater. An Indian colleague of mine tells me that the Indian food in London is better than that in India.

For lunch suggestions in the City, refer to the Business Travel section that follows.

The two places below are good low-budget places that were have been in business for the last couple of years, and were still around in May of '00:
1) Khan's at 13-15 Westbourne Grove for Indian - crowded and noisy, but inexpensive. In June of '00, Khans was temporarily without a license to serve alcohol (Bayswater Tube stop)
2) Nusa Dua, 11-12 Dean Street in Soho for out-of-this-world Indonesian food (Leicester Square or Tottenham Court Tube stops).

Although most places include service (gratuity) in the bill, some don't, so if in doubt, ask. One of my London colleagues leaves a couple of pounds on the table, even if service is included, because he is not convinced the server gets any of the service charge. If service isn't included, it's customary to leave a tip of 10%, or 15% for outstanding service.

For an immediate immersion into London culture, one must visit at least one of London's 10,000 pubs. The British public house is an institution in the UK and having one with one's mates is an after work ritual, particularly on a Friday. It's a myth that the Brits drink warm beer. While ale pulled from the tap at one of the pubs won't be as cold as a chilled bottle of Becks, the temperature would be better described as not-quite-as-cold-as-refrigerated rather than warm or room temperature. Draft beer is served by the pint or by the half-pint (or "half"). Imperial pints are 20% larger than US pints and British ales and bitters will produce nasty hangovers. Remember that. Pubs close at 11 PM, due to UK's archaic licensing laws, although there is a move now to change the law to allow pubs to stay open 24 hours. If you are going clubbing, get to the club well before the pubs close or get reamed on the club's cover charge.

Pubs are also an excellent food value independently discovered by myself, and later recommended by the doorman at my flat. Entrees (mains in the UK) usually run £3-5, and are simple, but generally good. The routine for ordering food in a British pub is as follows. There will be a chalkboard listing today's specials. Often only one of the specials listed will be available. Food is generally, but not always, paid for separately from beer. Sometimes they bring it to your table, other times they leave it at the counter for you to pick up. Tipping is normally not done in pubs. If you imbibe, be sure to order a beer with your food. Some pubs stop serving or run out of food relatively early so ask the barman or barmaid what they have, if after 6 or 7.

When ordering beer, you will be confounded by fewer choices if you ask for a specific type of beer, such as bitter, lager, ale etc. I was told that the Guinness stout in the US isn't as good as the Guinness in the UK. I thought that was a crock until I went over there. Now I'm convinced it's better in the UK, maybe because it has had the benefit of not having been shipped across the Atlantic.

Good coffee is hard to find in London. If you are a coffee snob, you may want to bring a supply of Peet's from home with you. There used to be a chain with good coffee named Seattle Coffee. They are now owned by corporate predators Starbucks and because of my refusal to patronize Starbucks, I haven't been in one since, so can't vouch for the quality now. If you want a plain coffee, ask for a filter coffee. Failure to do so may yield a Nescafé (the Brits don't have as much of a problem with instant coffee as Americans do.)

For those allergic to cigarette smoke, London restaurants may take a little getting used to. Larger restaurants have a non-smoking section but it generally is just some tables adjacent to the smoking area. More people in England smoke than in the States and expecting a smoke free dining experience is unrealistic. Crowded pubs in particular tend to be smoky. The following is a smoke-related story.

I was requested by Barbara Anne, at the time my supervisor's supervisor, to hand-carry a dress that she was to wear in a friend's London wedding back to San Francisco with me. The dress was sent to my attention in London in a paper envelope, which I had opened because it had my name on it. Since it was St. Patrick's day, I went to a pub after work with my colleagues, taking the paper envelope with the dress inside it with me, and drank several pints over an extended period. Of course being a London pub, it was smoky. I got home and noticed all of my clothes and hair reeked of cigarette smoke. Then I remembered the envelope with Barbara Anne's dress in it. She doesn't smoke, so it would have been a bad thing if it smelled like smoke. Much to my relief, the dress was sealed tightly in plastic. The wedding has come and gone and she never said anything, so I think I am off the hook (until she reads this, that is!)

© 1999 by headwall (revised, 9/00)
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