On Monday, February
21st, we cleared out with Netherlands Antilles Customs at the police station
in Simpson Bay, raised the anchor, and motored through the bridge at 0900.
We re-anchored outside the bridge, and after hoisting the dinghy and the
outboard engine aboard Sovereign, we raised the anchor and set sail for
St. Barthelemy, about 20 miles away. Even though we were beating
into a 15 knot southeasterly trade wind, the passage wasn't too bad, and
we were anchored off the town of Gustavia and checked in with the Port
Captain by 1630.
St. Barts is a small V-shaped island, about five miles east to west, and two miles north to south. The island is part of the French West Indies, and we found it to have a much stronger French influence than St. Martin. Fewer people spoke English, and francs seemed more widely used than dollars. We went ashore here, hiked up to a fort overlooking the harbor, walked around the town, and bought a few groceries. We didn't stay long at the harbor, though, because the anchorage was just an open roadstead, and the swell coming in made sleeping difficult. The next day we moved the boat to Anse de Columbier, a small harbor at the western tip of the V. After a month in the enclosed Simpson Lagoon, where we were afraid to swim because of the water quality, it was nice to be able to swim from the boat. There is also a large beach taking up the middle third of the shoreline of the harbor, and we went ashore there for walks.
Hiking on St. Barths
The day after
our arrival at Anse de Columbier, we went on a hike with Glyn and Jenny
from Wandering Star, and their guests Derek and Helen. We had a wonderful
walk along the rugged and undeveloped northern coast to another lovely
and almost deserted beach at Anse des Flamandes, watching the swells crash
along the rugged coastline, and watching birds, butterflies, and lizards
darting about the path.
Passport stamps from Antigua
The next day
we checked out with the Port Captain and said goodbye to the crew of Wandering
Star, as they headed back to St. Martin to put the boat in storage for
a trip back to England. We waited until 1730, then raised the anchor
and set course for Antigua, about 90 miles to the southeast. We had
chosen a good weather window, and except for having to motor, the passage
was pleasant with light headwinds and relatively calm seas. Along
with us were several other boats: Feist, with a German couple and
their puppy aboard, and two single-handers aboard Little Bit and Delbee
II. It was a pleasant, uneventful passage, and we arrived off St.
John's Harbour a little before daylight. As it got light, we motored
into St. John's, took one look around at the dirty, commercial harbor,
and turned right around. All four boats which made the passage that
night decided to clear in at Jolly Harbour instead. We did this,
then all moved our boats to the anchorage at Five Island Harbour.
Good shelling in Antigua
The shores of
Five Islands Harbour are undeveloped except for the ruins of two stone
sugar mills, and we spent the next week there, anchored with a handful
of other boats, enjoying the solitude. There was a wonderful beach
just 100 yards from where we were anchored, and we dinghied ashore and
walked the beach every day. The shelling there was perhaps the best
we have found anywhere, and Cathy spent hours poking around and picking
up many beautiful shells. All the boats in the harbor got together
for a pot-luck dinner ashore one evening. Most other evenings saw
a handful of us gathered either on the beach or another boat for cocktails,
watching the sunset and looking for the elusive green flash afterwards.
On two days, one of the other boats with a sailboard set it up so that
the rest of us could try our skill (or lack thereof). In short, it
was everything that comes to mind when one thinks of cruising in the tropics.
Ruins of sugar mill, Five Island Harbor, Antigua
Even in such
a wonderful place, the urge to be moving on still surfaces. Little
things like the trash piling up, a lack of fresh produce, or a change in
the direction of the ocean swell hint that it is time to be moving on.
So after a week of near paradise, we again raised anchor, and sailed and
motored the 15 miles to English Harbour.
Fort at English Harbor
Though not as
nice as a deserted beach, English Harbour is pleasant in its own way.
This was the site of a dockyard serving the English fleet since 1723.
The original buildings of the dockyard and the stone fort still remain,
and make for an interesting walk. Incongruously, modern businesses
occupy the old buildings: an art gallery occupies the old officers
quarters; a liquor store is in the paymaster's office; and a bakery occupies
the old kitchen.
With our garbage empty and our lockers full, we find it is once again time to move on. We have a favorable forecast for tomorrow, and hope to leave at first light for Guadeloupe. Perhaps we can find some more deserted beautiful beaches. I hope so. I could get used to cruising like this.
Smooth sailing,
Jim and Cathy