Wednesday 16th August 1995 - The Start
I drove up to St Bees from Manchester in Alan's car. Mike came with us so that he could drive the car back. After leaving our stuff at the B&B, we went for a meal in the Queens, followed by a paddle under a magnificent sunset.

The long march to Black Sail
We set out before 9 O'Clock and made straight for the far end of Ennerdale and Black Sail Hut. We had been unable to book accommodation at either Ennerdale Bridge or at Gillerthwaire Youth Hostel, so to avoid a very long walk, we cut out the loop round St Bees Head and the climb up Dent. The day started sunny and warm with a trace of fog, but had reached about 30° C by the time we reached Ennerdale Water. After the lake, came a long walk a rough stone road through the forest. We had finished all our water, before reaching Black Sail at about 7 O'Clock. I have never drunk so much water with a meal as I did that night! All the guests in the hostel that night had a major blisters, with Beatrice's' being extremely bad.

Black Sail Hut is an experience in basic living. No showers and no mains water, but we were to tired to complain, and anyway the view around the corrie and across to Pillar are magnificent.

Borrowdale via the Honister Pass
Today we had a short walk of about 7 km to Borrowdale. We ascended the steep slope from Ennerdale, and walked across the tops to Honister Pass, and down into the wettest valley in England. There was even a gentle drizzle to greet us. Beatrice was in severe agony from her blisters, which covered most of her feet, so the walk took us most of the day. We stayed in Borrowdale Youth Hostel. Leaving Beatrice to recover, the other 3 of us went for drink in the nearby village of Rosthwaite. Coming back across the fields with the aid of a small torch, reminded us how absolutely dark the countryside is at night, unlike the big city, where you can always see your way.

Up to Greenup Edge and onto Grasmere
Marion and Beatrice decided to get the packhorse bus to the next hostel. Alan and I walked up the valley to Greenup Edge. The day was extremely hot and so hazy, that by the afternoon, we could hardly see to the next mountain. We picked up a follower in the valley in the form of a trail hound, which refused to leave us. Our new found faithful companion was finally taken off our hands by a couple walking their own dog.

We continued along the path over Gibson Knott and Helm Crag, before descending steeply towards Grasmere. At the hostel, we learned that Beatrice had been to Keswick hospital, where they had suggested 2 weeks off her feet.

Helvellyn, the highest point of the walk
Just Alan and me today, and the day started hot. We ascended to Grisdale Tarn and on up the very steep side of Dollywaggon Pike. A relatively easy walk along the ridge, via Nethermost Pike, brought us to Helvellyn, the highest point of the entire walk at 950 m. Being a fine Sunday in Summer, meant that there were about 200 people on the summit. It was very hot, hazy, and totally calm. Not a breath of wind. The perfect day for millions of flying ants to swarm, mostly round me.

We descended via the famous Striding Edge, a spectacular arręte, which descends to Patterdale. Apparently you could walk from Borrowdale to Patterdale in one go, leaving out the ascent of Helvellyn, but you'd be a bit knackered at the end of it.

Out of the Lake District
Marion felt brave and joined Alan and I for the 26 km to Shap. A long way on a very hot sunny day across 700 m mountains, and not a single pub or shop en route. We ascended from Patterdale, and walked via the attractive Angle Tarn, to the High Street ridge overlooking Haweswater Reservoir. That year the water was very low, and you could see the outlines of the roads and buildings of the drowned village of Mardale Green, left high and very dry. The trek along the western side of the reservoir was long and hot, and it was followed by a fair walk over fields and country roads to Shap, which we reached about half seven.

Limestone plateau - Shap to Kirby Stephen
Marion declined the chance of this day's 31 km, and went by the Packhorse instead. Although long, the route was over a sparsely populated limestone plateau, so the walking was quite easy after the Lake District. We arrived in Kirby Stephen just after six. The hostel there a converted church, which may be nice to look at, but is very cramped inside.

Across the Pennines to Keld
The walk to the Nine Standards was easy after the Lake District, and because there had been rain during the night, we could see all the way back to the Cumbrian mountains. The temperature had also dropped to the low 20s, making walking much easier. We reached Keld Youth Hostel about half four, and has plenty to time to look at the various waterfalls, not that they had much water going over them. Keld is just a collection of houses, so we were forced to have a quiet night. It is also on the famous Pennine Way.

Swaledale and old mining country
The route from to Grinton goes across the moors and old lead mining areas to the North of Swaledale and involves 2 steep ascents. The weather was even cooler, with fine drizzle. We stayed at Grinton Lodge which has a fine view of Reeth and Swaledale.

A pleasant stroll into Richmond
Beatrice's paws had recovered enough for her to join us, for the 'short' walk to Richmond. To save walking I decided take the road just south of the River Swale, and cross at the ford at the ruins of Marrick Abbey. Well it is marked as a ford on the Ordnance Map, but I doubt if may vehicles could cross it, and pedestrians have to take off their boots. We had the whole afternoon to look round Richmond, which is the largest town en route. In the evening Alan started feeling ill, and retired to bed early.

The never ending level fields to Osmotherly
Today we faced 37 km across flat farmland to Osmotherly. Only Alan, despite still feeling unwell, accompanied me. It was a long way with frequent detours to the path, and it drizzled most of the day. The official path goes to Ingleby Cross, but since the nearest hostel is at Osmotherley, we headed straight there. Not easy with only a sketch map. Alan kept stopping for more and more frequent rests, it was about half eight when we got to the hostel.

Along the edge of the North York Moors
Alan got the Packhorse today, and I walked with the two women. The path follows the edge of the North York Moors, with great views over the low land to the north towards the industrial city of Middlesborough. At one point we passed a gliding club where gliders are launched in spectacular fashion using a converted fire engine and steel cable. We reached our B&B in Great Broughton, just before a very heavy thunderstorm broke.

Across the moors to Grosmont
I was on my own today, and joined up with the Hudsons, a retired policeman and his son, for company. The scenery here consists of vast heather covered grouse moors, with virtually no rocks or trees. A cold northerly wind and overcast sky meant that the temperature dropped as low as 10° C at one point. We had lunch at the remote White Lion Inn, a sprawling pub which was packed. Due to accommodation booking problems I had to walk on as far as Grosmont.

The last bit
Last day, and all four of us walked the last stretch to Robin Hood's Bay. More drizzle, but the sun came out for the last bit along the cliff tops. Well, I did it, thirteen days of solid walking, varied food, strange beds, sore feet, extreme heat, drizzle, and great scenery. When can I go next?