Venturing through Vietnam

Exchange money at Jewellery stores which give a much better rate than banks, especially if you have a $100 bill.

Most people enter Vietnam in either Hanoi and head south or Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) and go north. We entered over land from Laos at Lao Bao, halfway down the long and narrow country which meant that we had to back-track to see everything - more time on buses. It is difficult for tourists to take local transport in Vietnam and if you do have to get on local buses and they charge huge amounts of dollars. We got stuck for $20 from Lao Bao to Hue but had no choice as we entered during TET (Vietnamese New Year). Many cafes have minibuses which bring you to the next destination for $3-$10. One can buy an 'Open Ticket' for between $25and $39 which usually go from Hanoi - Hue - Hoi An - Na Thrang - Dalat - Ho Chi Minh or the other way around. We heard some scare stories about these being awful buses (especially the Sinh Cafe ones) so decided to do each stop individually which is more expensive but less risky. The government has slapped a $5 entrance charge on most sights which can eat into the travelers' budget. Choose wisely!

Thursday 29th January to Sunday 1st February 1998 (inclusive)
Hotel;Duy Tan, Hue (middle Vietnam on the east coast
Room Type: Three big beds ($10)
Verdict: Great, big beds, big bathroom, hot water, spacious room, mossie nets (needed). Don't be turned off by the rather plush looking hotel exterior
Hue
Eating
We ate most of the time at the Madarin cafe on Huong Vong Street (it moved there very recently). They serve great baked potatoes here and other cheap dishes. Other places were more expensive.

Sight-seeing
Hue was the old capital of Vietnam and has a lot to offer in terms of amenities and things to see. A boat trip on the Perfume River costs $3 for a day, lunch included. The Perfume Pagoda is the first stop and is free. The boat then stops at many of the Royal Tombs. These cost $5 each to enter. We were recommended to only go to the Minh Mang Mausoleum as this was the best and would save us money. The peaceful boat trip in itself is really lovely on a sunny day.
Hire a bicycle for 5,000-10,000 to get around the city for a day. The Imperial Palace ($5) is well worth a visit and the local markets north of the citadel and the many museums.

DMZ Tour
To find out about the Vietnam war and visits some historic places book onto the DMZ tour from any cafe. This day trip cost us $15 each. The DMZ is the area 5km either side of the Ben Hai river which divided north and south Vietnam from the Geneva Accord 1954 after the French pulled out till the end of the war in 1975. From Hue you head west to the skeleton of a church which was a hide out for various sides during the war and was the site of many sieges. You also visit Dong Ha town, Hien Luong bridge, the Rockpile, part of the Ho Chi Minh trail, ethnic minority village (Bru), the old airstrip with bomb craters and un-detonated bombs and land-mines at Khe Sanh Combat Base. The tunnels of Vinh Moc are where the Viet Cong hid from overhead American war panes and were too dark, narrow and underground for me. Probably the most interesting part of the tour is talking to the tour guide (who maybe biased) and other tourists, especially older generations who will give different nationalities experiences and viewpoints on the war. Great discussions!

Monday 2nd to Thursday 5th February 1998 (spent one night in Halong Bay)
Hotel;Tin Vinh Hotel, Hanoi
Room Type: Two beds and a mattress ($10)
Verdict: Friendly hosts, treated us to food and drink and chats in the lobby. Real 'getting in with the locals'. Ensuite bathroom, hot water. Near the Apocalypse Now pub (which itself is not great.
Hanoi
Eating
Food is expensive in Hanoi. We found the Queen cafe and Darling Cafe to be the best value. beer is relatively cheap. Of course street stalls are the cheapest form of sustenance.

Friday 6th February 1998
Hotel; Bus from Hanoi to Hue

Saturday 7th to Tuesday 10th February 1998 (inclusive)
Hotel;Pho Hoi II, Hoi An (middle Vietnam on the east coast down from Hue
Room Type: Two big beds and a mattress($10)
Verdict: Good but noisy in the morning with a baby crying at 6am. Ensuite bathroom, hot water, mossie nets (needed).
Hoi An
A really quaint and beautiful place. Get loads of clothes tailor-made here for next to nothing. The fruit and vegetable markets are extremely lively and colourful.

Wednesday 11th to Friday 13th February 1998 (inclusive)
Hotel;Khotoco, Na Thrang (mid-south Vietnam on the east coast)
Room Type: Two big beds ($10)
Verdict: Fine. If you look you can get cheaper. Ensuite bathroom, hot water, mossie nets (still needed).
Na Thrang
Na Thrang is the tourist resort spot of Vietnam. The seaside boulevard is wide and palm trees tower over passing motors and pedestrians on the promenade. The beach is lined with pricey cafes and bars and the town has every facility one needs.

Entertainment
All backpackers have to do a boat trip for a day. We chose Mama Hanhs, with the most boisterous reputation. Indeed the day lived up to that. The day costs $US7 which does not include Pepsi and beer (10D per can). Mama Hanh segregates the oldies from the locals from the young ones. Our boat was mad. After floating for some time, enjoying the passing islands and dipping in to the aqua ocean for a swim we ate a lavish and plentiful seafood banquet lunch. Flowing this feast life rings were strewn from the top of the boat into the south China Sea. We all jumped in and found our seat in the hollow of a life ring and paddled towards the floating bar laden with mulberry wine, pineapple and smokes. The 40 minutes that followed were the epitome of bliss. 30 young ones relaxed and mellowed beneath the blaring sun in the fresh clean waters while 'Good Morning Vietnam' and 'Pulp Fiction' blared from the boat. If only our friends could see us now. Back on the boat fruit of every colour shape and texture was laid before our gaping eyes. This was a superb opportunity to taste the various tropical fruits that we had seen at al the market stalls. The trip ended at about 5pm.
After a sleep most people head for the Rainbow Baron the beach which has cheap beer during Happy Hour which lasts from 5-11pm. The Sailing Club or the Zippo bar are the more expensive late night bars.

If possible, try to be in Na Thrang for a full moon party. Although I didn't participate dancing on bars and such is more tasteful than the Cost Del Sol (well I'd had a few beers by that time).

La Thrang up by the Dam market is a treat. One can grill seafood and meat on a special charcoal grill at the table for a reasonable 16 D. Stalls sell cheap local food and cafes organize trips and cheap western food.

Around Na Thrang
You can hire a motorbike and visit a secluded beach or fishing village from Na Thrang. Buses also go to the historic ruins at My Son. We left at9am in the morning and settled on top of a boat

Saturday 14th and Sunday 15th
Hotel;Binh Yen, Dalat (south Vietnam inland)
Room Type: Three big beds ($9)
Verdict: Great, big beds, ensuite bathroom, hot water, spacious room, mossie nets (really needed), TV and telephone!. Much better value than Peace Hotels I & II. Only 10 minutes from the centre
Dalat

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