Bologna

It is very hard for me to show you my town in a few words, I could talk about monuments, museums and porticoes, but this page cannot substitute a good historical-art guide, it's is only a list of suggestions to stimulate your curiosity. Perhaps I will convince you to come to walk under the 35 kms of porticoes of my city.
My lovely town has about 500,000 inhabitants, it is located in the north of Italy (Emilia Romagna region) not far from Florence and Venice, so you can include Bologna in your tour of "MUST TO SEE" in Italy!

PIAZZA MAGGIORE

You surely have to start the visit of Bologna from Piazza Maggiore the historical, administrative and human heart of the city. It is the focal point of city life as here there are some of the most important monuments and the Town Hall, here the citizens use to meet during special events or exhibitions, here every day you may find some child trying to learn walking looking for pigeons on "crescentone" (the center of the square). Piazza Maggiore is the mirror of the city: there are always people chatting and ready to include you in theyr debates; there are porticos and towers (the tower of Clock of Palazzo D'Accursio and the tower of Arengo of Palazzo del Podestà) and other splendid buildings to observe while you are seated on the steps of S.Petronio.

In Piazza maggiore you find: the Basilica of San Petronio, the Palazzo dei Notai, the Palazzo D'Accursio or Palazzo Comunale -Town Hall- (which is the home of the Tourist Acceptance), the prestigious Museo Morandi and the Municipal Art Collections), the Palazzo del Podestà, the Palazzo di Re Enzo and the Fontana del Nettuno and the Palazzo dei Banchi.

Perhaps, most loved monument from Bologna inhabitants is the Basilica of S.Petronio, the fifth church of the world, dedicated to the Patron of the city, it is so beautiful even if its incomplete facade.

To right, we find the Palace of the Notai (Notary), with its splendid medieval windows and merlature.

In front of the Basilica, you find the Palazzo del Podestà, with its great hall(61 meters for 14) to the first floor.

Palazzo D'Accursio is the Town Hall. From the courtyard, to the second floor, you arrive to Museo Morandi and the Municipal Art Collections, and even if you decide not to visit them, it will worth the wonderful view of the square from windows of the cafeteria.

In front of Palazzo Re Enzo there is the excellent fountain of Neptune (Fontana del Nettuno) executed by Giambologna in 1564. The Palace of Re Enzo was constructed in the 1244-46 as town hall and was the place where Enzo King of Sardinia (son of the Ghibelline emperor Federico II) was kept in prison for nearly 30 years (was the 1249).

Now I hope you are wearing your favourite and most confortable pair of shoes, as you have to say good bye to the Giant (the way Bolognesi use to call Neptune because of its three meters of height!) and start walking!

Alongside S.Petronio there is Palazzo dei Banchi and the Pavaglione Portico begins. It was built in 1565 and is one of the most famous and loved among the Bolognesi, it connects the great square to the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio, a sixtenth century palace , the first permanent seat of the University of Bologna. be enchanted by the largest Italian municipal library with more than 600.000 books and thousands of manuscripts and sixtteenth century editions. Near to Archiginnazio, you will appreciate the Archeological Museum, which has one of the largest and most important collections of Egyptian, Roman, Villanovian and Etrusca antiquities.

Just behind the Pavaglione through any of its large arcades is one of the most typical parts of the historical centre where is a real pleasure to wonder around the stands of the food market and the food shops.
In via Drapperie there is one of the most famous food shops, Tamburini, that now has a small self service opened at lunch time. You have to taste Mortadella and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.
Little beyond a great "baker", Atti, where to buy the optimal Bologna bread, crescenta and the "pasta fresca" as the traditional tortellini or tagliatelle.
Then you may stop in Via Orefici to the Bar Otello where people spoke rigorously about sport, soccer and Bologna team. In Vicolo Ranocchi there is a typical "wine cellar", Il Baretto, where only wine is served... if you want to eat a sandwich... you have to take it from home!!!

THE TWO TOWERS

The large via Rizzoli, a relatively "modern" (end '800) street, connects Piazza Maggiore to the second most loved place in town: Piazza di Porta Ravegnana where you see the Two Towers, symbol of the city.

In Middle-ages there were nearly 180 towers in Bologna, and even now more than twenty, dotted around all the city centre, can still be admired. Asinelli Tower is the higher, is about 98 metres and was built between 1109 and 1119 by the family of the same name. The Garisenda Tower is the lowest fo the two, it is 48 meters high and was shorted during the XIV sec. to avoid any risk.
If you do not fear to go up 498 steps, you will enjoy the view from the top of Asinelli, (it costs only 3.000 Lire!)

From the Two Towers, from via de Giudei, you enter the Jewish Ghetto where the Church government confined the Jewish from 1556 to 1593. It has been recently restored with the typical paving and nice iron lamps.

In the opposite direction, from Two Towers, have a look toward via Castiglione in order to admire Palazzo della Mercanzia with its flowery gothic jowel, the Loggia del Carrobbio.
Here, we note that some of the main city roads form a crossroad. One of these in Via Santo Stefano, leading to the Piazza by the same name. The architectonic complex, know as the Chiesa delle Sette Chiese [Church of the Seven Churches] unfolds its monumental romanesque style and the heady beauty of its columns in cipolin marble.
But I suggest you to arrive to P.zza S. Stefano from Strada Maggiore, a road that both historical and artistic, elegant and popular at the same time...

PIAZZA S. STEFANO

When you arrive to Strada Maggiore, to number 19, you find one of the most interesting Italian example of 13th century wooden portico of Casa Isolani, it is called the one of the three arrows. People say that a betrayed husband wanted to kill his wife hiring three archers. But the woman suprised them by showing herself without dresses, so the three men, mistook the sight embedding the arrows into the ceiling. (but I've to see that I've never been able to see them!)
From here, through the gallery of Corte Isolani (Isolani Court) you arrive in the evocative Piazza S.Stefano.

The Church of S. Stefano is a complex made from more buildings of various ages. The Seven Churches, (now they are only 4) are an interlace of churches, courtyards, cloisters, chapels, crypts, which together look out on to Piazza Santo Stefano. Remember to visit the tomb of S. Petronio and the beautiful Romanesque cloister.

VIA D'AZEGLIO and VIA CARBONESI

Via D'Azeglio starts from Piazza Maggiore, and as it is completely pedestrian, is considered the ideal for the shopping!

Near there, you will find Corte de' Galluzzi is one of the few examples of protected complex of tower and court. The Galluzzi family was one of most turbulent during XII and XIII century, with diputes and conspiracies they caused many risks for the city. I just want to tell you the tragic history of Virginia Galluzzi and Alberto Carbonesi who secretly married themselves. As Romeo and jliet families, Carbonesi and Galluzzi were ennemy, so when they were discovered from the father of her, he decided to kill the joung man and all its relatives who had collaborated to the marriage. The pain for the poor Virginia was too much, so she hung herself.

When you arrive to the bottom of via D'Azeglio, turn right trough via Carbonesi. Little beyond, you find Majani stores where I suggest to stop if you love chocolate. Try the most famous Fiat is the liberty style shop, which is nearly unchanged from the opening in 1834 (but the company was founded in 1796)
From the next door you enter COIN, which hide a great treasure (unfortunately they are closed -13/03/2004-). Enter and you will discover that the store has been integrated and constructed over to the rests of the Roman Theatre, you will walk on the ancient paving!

VIA INDIPENDENZA

From Piazza Nettuno it leaves the Via Indipendenza, great for shopping and the tipycal walk fo saturday afternoon. Along this way the dome of Bologna can be found: theCathedral of S. Pietro who goes back to the 910 but has been restored and modified many times. Even if this is the dome of the town, it is not the loved church for Bolognesi as S.Pietro has always been the symbol of the central power (Bologna was the second city of the Church State) while S.Petronio was the Church of the people.

Just in front S. Pietro you see the Hotel Baglioni, the most prestigious hotel in Bologna with its rooms painted from Carracci. Go on walking down the street, and you will arrive to cross Via Augusto Righi. Go in Via Malcontenti. Here you may discover that under Bologna roads there are many water channels made in 1185.

On fridays and saturdays, in Piazza 8 agosto, there is the most traditional rendez-vous: the market called "Piazzola" which is held near the park of "Montagnola". In the park you may find another market, it is the second-hand clothing one.

Other:

S.FRANCESCO

From Piazza Maggiore, opposite to Via Rizzoli, you can follow Via Ugo Bassi in order to arrive to Piazza S.Francesco with the magnificent Gothic S. Francesco from 13th century. Nearby you will see the Tombe dei Glossatori (Tombs of Glosstors), some pyramidal mausolei dedicated to the first masters of the university in 1200.

SAN DOMENICO

In Piazza S.Domenico, you will be able to admire the Basilica of S. Domenico, built in the 13th century, there are great paintings and the famous "Arca di S.Domenico" sculptured amongst others by Nicoḷ da bari (known as Nicoḷ Dell'Arca after this work) and by Michelangelo. Annexed to the church are other Tombe dei Glossatori (Tombs of Glosstors).

SAN LUCA

One of the most important portico is no doubt that of S.Luca, it is longest in the world and links the city to the Sanctuary of Madonna di S.Luca, stretching for three and half kilometres (666 archades) over the hill of Monte della Guardia (m. 298)
In the Sanctuary there is a Madonna icon mad from the evangelista Luca as people use to say. This is a very suggested site not only for tourists, but also for Bologna inhabitants who use to climb this porticos for faith, for fun and also for jogging.
By night both Basilica and portico are lightened in order to be clearly visible from kilometres.

BOLOGNA AREA

The area of Bologna is so rich of villages, small towns, monuments and parks to see. You may drive your car wondering around to discover everything you want! I only want to talk to you about the south-west are, where I live.

The "One ticket for all the Museum" is available with two different periods of validity. It provides admittance to Bologna's museums. You may also find the "two-function ticket: to the museums by bus"; it is valid for three days and provides admittance to Bologna's museums and the use of the whole city network of the ATC public transport service.

Other usefull LINKS:

Iperbole municipal WWW server
Discover Bologna by "Assessorato al turismo Comune di Bologna"
Museum in Bologna Area
A guest of: Bologna monthly tourist edition bilingual magazine, published by "Golden Keys Bologna"
Enjoy life in the City-Centre by Centro Nuova Comunicazione
City centre Map select one from "STRADE" (way) or a "POSTI" (monuments, churches, palaces) and you will see where are on the map!
Girabologna virtual tout of the town
www.bolognadavivere.it about Bologna nights
Al sît bulgnais "il sito Bolognese" to know the local language
Tamburini a well known gastronomy shop placed in the heart of the historical centre
Italian for travellers and some suggestions about Bologna