HAMPI VIJAYANAGAR       An ancient trading place, the Hampi valley and the still running Vijayanagar excavations provide both lush greenery and rock formations as if on the moon. Hampi is excellent for stays of two days and more. Rumour has it, a French woman has lived with a cougar as the only company outside Hampi for as long as 16 years, which might be just a bit overexaggerated. Anyway, spend some time walking around, especially up to the biggest temple. Be aware of a few things though. As the number of travellers visiting Hampi has multiplied since the 1980's, so has that of beggars and fake saddhus, deva dasis (temple dancers, often children). The nearest train station is Hospet, 13 kom or so away. Go there, don't ask the villagers, for train tickets out. The money-minded Hampians favour buses (of course), which many of us travellers don't. What they will tell you is that there are no trains out, a common scam in all India right now by people in the bus business, or with relatives or friends in it. If you arrive from Goa, chances are that police will stop and search the bus on the Goan-Karnatakan border. This is mainly because of the large amount of alcohol smuggled between the two states. This also makes bus crews to stop at temples to hold pujas for the luck of the tour, and to thank the smuggler's patron deities afterwards. When in Hampi, you must go to the fabulous Restaurant under the Mango Tree. Just follow the river from Hampi. Just outside the village, there is a sign "Under the Mango Tree, this way" just follow it through the banana plantation (don't be afraid if some locals offer you to buy hash or chillums) and across the small irrigating stream. Then, just chill out with the family that runs the friendly place. First time I came to Hampi, we spent the night up in a hilltop temple, despite our fears of snakes and all that. It was f...ing chilly, I'm telling you, so our sleeping bags weren't all showbread. Well, the sunset, its rise, the silence at night with a view over ancient Deccan and the flock of monkeys waking us up next morning were all worth the cold, strain and the scares we might have suffered that night. Unfortunately, there are problems with muggings at present. Some locals said, the thieves came from a neighbouring state (of course), but that they had been captured. The advice of some more recent rock paintings in Hampi saying "beware of thiefs" or "Thives this way" should be perhaps be followed, especially at night or when alone. Actually, this is one of the areas in this part of the subcontinent where you can get a minute for yourself. *** Back to Sight of India