Getting Around Town: You'll find it really easy to get around using the subway/underground (called MTR) and rail (KCR), it's really cheap, fast, and high-tech. You can get a store-value smart card, or single journey tickets (which are magnetic cards, they have souvenir versions available for tourists). I'll mention the exit letter if I remember but it's very easy to find, all you have to do is look at their signs under each exit with all the major landmarks around that exit listed. BTW, a lot of the malls I mentioned are linked to the subway station, and the passageways usually have big signs with the mall's name on it. Don't worry, you can't get lost. Pacific Place, Landmark, Times Square, Festival Walk, Grand Century, they all have direct links from the exits through. Of course if you are a true tourist you will definitely want to go on the ferries as well. There are also tons of taxis around, they are easily recognisable, all of them are red with the word taxi printed across the side and a little sign stuck on the roof.

See a route map of the MTR.

CLOTHES -

If you are slender you can go to Fa Yuen Street and Ladies Market in Mongkok (MTR exit B and KCR stop) for some super bargains (but where it's usually one-size-fits-all). It always has the latest fashion items, like when ethnic was in hawaian prints and Indian prints were everywhere. But mostly, it follows Japanese fashion, which can be quite strange sometimes. Sham Shui Po is for older ladies and doesn't follow trends so much, still a lot of bargains. Cute tees for $10 HK which is $1 something in U.S. There's no try-on and it's usually one-size-fits-all. Oh and be careful with stuff you get, some of it is ok, but check that the sewing lines are even, the pattern/motifs are centered etc. before you buy it. The quality isn't that great. As with any big city you'll also find some fake Prada bags, CK jeans, what ever is in at the moment they'll attempt to copy. People don't bargain at these stores generally, since it's already so cheap.
Fa Yuen is also a bit of a tourist experience, there's Chinese incense shops, exotic fruits in the front market if they're in season (things like dragon fruit, mangosteen, lai chi). But unless you are crazy you must avoid this place during weekend afternoons - its busiest time when you end up walking at a speed of 1 step every 5 seconds! Ladies Market tends to sell more accessories than clothes: beaded bags, sunglasses, hats, jewellery, shawls. By the side streets in the back they have great $10 shops (where everything has a $10 price tag, or at least it's pretty safe to say nothing in the stores get pass $20) with more Hello Kitty stuff. In comparison, Sham Shui Po is a lot less busy even on weekends. Stanley Market out in Stanley is a more touristy spot, but it's a similar idea. In my experience, Stanley is a little more expensive with certain stuff, but you can and are expected to bargain here. Also, a lot of the stores here will let you try stuff on.
Bossini, U2 and Giordano (website) sells cheap clothes you CAN try on but they are plain (I guess you can called timeless classic style), most are city-smart-casual. It's still way better than stuff I see at Zellers and Walmart :). And if you are here during the big winter (usually during christmas) and summer sale time (early to mid July, by August the most popular sizes will have runned out, and some stores start putting in fall fashion), everything is cheap, including big name brands.

There's a Shanghai Tang store in Central (MTR) peddler street exit. Website shanghaitang.com. They make custom fit cheongsam. And also just upstairs on Peddler building, there's another place called Blanc de Chine. See our upcoming section on local designer stores (with everything from haute couture to ready-to-wear).

But you can get cheongsams for much cheaper prices at touristy places or the Chinese Arts and Craft stores*. I've even seen some imitations of Shang Hai Tang's style: the bright untraditional colors on traditional clothing. They also have lipstick cases for HK$5 that works great for my Stila paper cardboard lipstick tubes.

There are tons of made-to-measure tailors in Hong Kong for everything from jackets, suit (men and women) to evening dresses. Most of these are family establishments, usually Chinese or Indian, that have been here for ages and should have good experience. They are not very expensive at all. You can also get custom made formal wear/evening dresses which I do know a few places for. Again look for it on our fashion page or email me.

One more general tip: be aware that at touristy small shops and places you can bargain quite a bit, but not at chain stores and department stores.

COSMETICS & SKINCARE-
By Store

Joyce - Carries all the exclusive hard-to-find lines. Stila, Bobbi Brown, Aesop, Kiehl, Face Stocklom, Eve Lom, Nars, Bumble and Bumble, Chanetcaille, Merlitta Berrstein skincare (from Milan, supposedly great line but ugly packaging), Nuxe, Annick Goutal, Smack nail polishes, the so-cute Beauty Palour kit..etc
Nathan Rd Tsim Sha Tsui (Exit E) - carries Nars, Stila, Face Stocklom, Chantecaille, T LeClerc, Laura Mercier, Bumble and Bumble, Eve Lom, Merlitta Berrstein, Kielhs, Asesop. They have a great self-browse policy so the SA (not assigned to a specific brand) will leave you alone. The store at New World Tower, 16 Queen's Road in Central carries Bobbi Brown, Stila, T LeClerc, Laura Mercier and the same skincare and haircare brands such as Kiehls. While there's a smaller selection of brands at the Central store, there is better stock of each brand. There's a make-over counter for Bobbi Brown there, the whole Stila collection including the metal 8 pan and the 4-pans. Website under construct joyce.com

Joyce also has a subdivision called ad:hoc that sells younger designer clothing. Its flagship store in Times Sqaure, Causeway Bay also has the beauty same cosmetic lines (Annick Goutal fragrances, Dirty Girl, and some more lines from down under, including Smack nailpolishes (with funky names), Caudalie (French grape seed based) skincare, Arnaud baths stuff. Plus the usual Nars, Chantecaille, Eve Lom..etc. line-up). Ad:hoc has a smaller branch in Festival Walk, it carries some of the line, including Dirty Girl items, but the selection is very limited. Plus there's a Joyce beauty boutique opposite Times Square next to Body Shop that sells cosmetics exclusively. 38 Russell Street

Seibu- Pacific Place (mall), Admiralty.
offers more hip brands, Erno Laszlo, Anna Sui, Stila, Tony & Tina, Ipsa, 3C, Fresh, RMK, Soigne, Dr Brand (Japanese skincare) .. and all the regulars like Dior, Lancome, Estee. Get Fresh skincare/baths stuff (at the Loft section in the back along with funky stationary/gift stuff). There is also a big perfume section carrying everything from Lempricka to Issey. Recently, Calvin Klein, Manifesto and a Japanese line called Choc Choc were added during a complete renovation. There's also a Seibu at Windsor House, Causeway Bay but it carries only a few lines.

ijij - carries Alcone Fastlash lash builder from New York, Pero curler, Demeter fragrances, Alterna haircare, Dr.Sha. Hiro and Ovelan (Shu's professional ranges) top of the line double eyelid enhancers Claven plastic stickers cost $495 for 36 pairs No Name but Good Quality cosmetics
At: Sino plaza, Percival Street, Causeway 26880819 or: Sai Yeunge Choi STreet, Mongkok (call 23744555) or Ar store at 48A Kimberly Rd. TST Ph 23752001

DFS Galleria This is a great self-help store, I'm not sure if prices are lower, but they have Versace, Urban Decay, etc., Anna Suit, Origins, MAC, and all the standards. The Origins counter is certainly more laid-back and has more of a let-you-browse-at-your-pace thing than their other counters.

City'super! and divisions like Log-On, and the Powder Room. Carries Molten Brown, and lots of cute candles and baths stuff, particularly from Japan, and TUB. You'll also find vanity organiser, and cosmetic store boxes. Komenuka Bijin line is sold for half the price at Sephora. There's ton of Japanese drugstore lines, false lashes, part/corner curlers (similar to Peros and Zhen's but much cheaper), hot eyelash curler, nail art, Kai tweezers, Hello Kitty, lip palettes, Japanese wipes for teeth, tongue cleaners . Basically just tons of odd cute stuff. Stocks will vary at times so you may not be able to find certain items. Also Origins, Aveda, Clinique counters, depending which store you go to. Habour City TST City'Super also has Bloom self-help testers rack, Neal Yard aromatherapy, Crabtree. Website: (Chinese) logon.com.hk and (Eng) citysuper's

Lane Crawford (lanecrawford.com) and Sogo (plus their beauty floor and New Face building) are two other dept. stores worth visiting. Lane has T Le Clerc, Borghese, Creme de La Mer, in some branches (biggest store in Times Square, Causeway. But also in Ocean Terminal TST, Pacific Place Admiralty, and Central). They also have Anna Sui, Ipsa, MAC, Bobbi Brown, Aveda..etc in some stores, but nothing you can't find anywhere else. Sogo packs a lot on to its main floor, you'll find most of the mainstream brands right there plus they are trying to update with a host of "hip" brands like RMK and MAC.

Icon This 10,000 square feet beauty megastore just opened in late July 2000, and it's your equivalent of an Asian Sephora - an asolute cosmetic wonderland. It carries: Sofina (Aube), Urban Decay, I Nouvi, Alchemy, Too Faced, Hardware, Joey New York, Elesis, Eveil, Fiorucci, Chen Yu, Matis, along with the usual standards (Estee Lauder, Lancome, Chanel, drugstore standards including Neutrogena) and more. Recently, it also launched its own in-house line Simply Icon. The packaging is simple and the price is affordable ($60 for lipstick) - very similar Red Earth in many ways. Like Sephora, everything is displayed in self help shelves, and there's even a DIY room with seats and mirrors for ladies to play with cosmetics. 1/F Hang Lung Centre Causeway Bay. The website icon-icon also takes international orders.

By Brand
3c (3 custom color specialist) cosmetics. Custom blend color cosmetics to the texture (glossy, shimmery) and shade you want. You can bring a swatch of fabric, or a discontinued lipstick and get it reproduced in 3 days. They also have a ready-to-wear line, which the company promises never to discontinue. At Couple store, Causeway Bay (see Bloom). and Seibu PP.
Agnes B cosmetics at their stores: Festival Walk, Kowloon Tong. Basement DFS Galleria TST.
Aveda - Lane Crawford (Times Square and Pacific Place branches), City'super. Free-standing in Festival. The New Face by Sogo. G/F Ocean Centre TST. Facials available at selected stores.
Avene - hot brand in Hong Kong for sensitive skin. Shop in Ocean Terminal, TST.
Anna Sui - Seibu and selected Lane Crawford. DFS Galleira at Tsim Sha Tsui (exit C).
Bed and Baths - Festival Walk, KLT. Landmark Central.
Bloom (Australian hip skincare & make-up brand) - Prices seem very reasonable, the shimmer cream (in pot) are $90 only, and quite generously sized. The Swank Shop, Festival Walk & The New Face by Sogo, Habour City City'Super (self-help tester rack). Plus Couple shop at 1/F Style House Causeway Bay. Couple is mainly a fashion store, but check out the Judith Hugener's tie-dyed shirts - they come in sealed glass jar still soaking in dyes. They also have a 3Custom Color counter. Bloom's website: bloom.net.au.
Blu Spa Canadian deepsea-based skincare line available in their store-and-salon in 2/F of the Galleria, Central. bluspa.com
Bobbi Brown - Free-standing in Festival. Sogo dept. store, Causeway Bay. Joyce in Central. Lane Crawford in Central.
Borghese - Sha Tin Plaza Mannings, Lane Crawford at Ocean Terminal and Pacific Place, Taikoo Shing UNY dept store, Sheung Shui Plaza Mannings. And 11/F Sogo
Covermark from Germany. Seibu, Pacific Place. Lane Crawford at TST Ocean Terminal. Sincere dept store, Grand Century Place. Shatin Watsons.
Crabtree & Evelyn* love their chocolate candles but are a bit pricey IMO. They also have yummy smelling room sprays. Pacific Place, Festival Walk. The New Face by Sogo. Ocean Terminal/Habour City TST. The Landmark (basement/underground floor), Central.
Creme de la Mer - Lane Crawford dept. store: Pacific Place and Times Square branches only.
Cellex-C and Presq. Plus - offers custom-blended foundation for $480 or so. Freestanding at Festival Walk - maybe Ocean Terminal TST
Decleor large free-standing store (w/ treatments) at Shop B, G/F and 1/F, Causeway Bay Mansion, 42-48 Paterson St, Causeway Bay. Te;: 28902038
Darphin high-end French skincare (and cosmetics) store-and-salon at Shop No. 310, level 3, Grand Century Place, 193 Prince Edward Rd. W. Ph: 26289310 / 26289303. The new cosmetics line packaging is a lot like Versace, gold with a flower pattern embrossed on the compacts, e/s, and lippie caps.
Elizabeth Arden available at Watsons at Pacific Place, Mannings at Habour City and Watsons at Sha Tin Plaza (Sha Tin KCR station). As far as I know, none of these counters offer custom-blending, but failing that, Prescriptives Plus also have custom blended foundation for $400-$500, and C'est La Vie Holistic Beauty Salon has custom foundation blending service and Aida Grey facials. C'est La Vie at: 10/F Canton House, 54-56 Queen's Road Central.
Fancl* - Japanese line selling preservative-free (and Paula approved, I asked her to check the ingredients list) skincare. The US site fancl.com sells a selected range. For info on the full line go to the local site Fancl-hk.com (eng version available). The line seems like a unique idea and suited to senstive skin, worth taking a look at. But they also produced their own brand of cosmetics and vitamins/supplements. One of the neatest items is the natural crystal rock deoderant, looks too good to be for body odor. Check local site for store locations.
Fresh baths products and fragrances are available at Seibu.
Jurlique and Dr. Haruka - herbal shop Central mid-levels (the streets that are on the hills and the sidewalk is really steps). Someone awhile ago was raving about Jurlique Moor Masque. Sells for $260 for a small tube. Also Healing Plants at G/F, 17 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central. Ph 2815-5005. Mainstore: 11/F Vogue Bldg, Central. Ph: 28100731
Glycel - specializes in skincare for mature skin, and facial treatments (in the privacy of back rooms) but also has cosmetics. I think they may have something similar to Origins where you get free treatments or at least discounted treatments if you spend a certain amount on products, but the min. is most likely much higher than Origins. Festival Walk, KLT. Or Grand Century Plaza, Mongkok (KCR station only). Times Square, Causeway Bay. Telford Plaza Phrase 2.
Guerlain counter at Festival Walk Watsons drugstore, Sogo. See website at guerlain.com (you can also check for Hong Kong locations).
Guinot - salon-cum-store at Habour City mall TST shop 225 (2nd floor)
H2O+ - stores in Festival Walk, Sha Tin Plaza, Granville Road TST, Habour City TST, Mongkok.
I Cononali is available at Couple store (see bloom) and G.O.D. store at Festival Walk.
La Prarie free-standing store at Ocean Centre (Ocean Terminal Zone B) near Shu, Soigne, Yves Rocher, and all the other beauty stores. Also at Pacific Place. Plus Watsons in Festival Walk.
Lancaster Watsons Grand Century Plaza. Website lancastercosemtics.com
Lierac Causeway Watsons (exit F or across from Sogo)
L'Occitane* - their prefume extracts come in very cute tiny bottles for $45 only. Love it! Free-standing in Festival Walks. The Landmark (mall), Central. Style House, Causeway Bay.
Mary Quant a really large free-standing on first floor, Fashion Island Ph: 2504 1126. And there's another shop at Admiralty. Also check out their website. It's a British brand but it's been sold to Japan and lots of the packaging and products has been updated. It has just as many colors to chose from as MAC and Shu in terms of lippies and e/s. Prices: eye gloss (4 shades0 $170 each. Mary Quant lip palette colors (to fit on a sleek metallic quad lip palette): $70 each. Recommended by article: MQ prescribed skin program's Sluffing cream and Revitalize Pack.
Miss Selfridge - popular young line from UK has a store corner at Sogo dept store (3/F). Check out the affordable make-up line - the nailpolishes are knockoff of Urban Decay's style packaging but sells only for $40. A comprehensive line with foundations, gloss, and all the works. Testers available but self-browse counter.
Molton Brown skincare - city'super. Has testers for a few things, and no SA to hassle me. Few small sample size stuff at Log-On. They have the full line including cosmetics at Causeway Bay Watsons (Jardin exit, F?). Website
Make Up For Ever - T.S.T. Ocean Terminal 2/F, also at Times Square, and another store near Sogo.
MAC - Lane Crawford at Pacific Place, Sogo dept store. Free-standing in Causeway Bay (42-48 Paterson Street) and Festival Walk. Duty Free Galleria TST
Nina Ricci - free-standing store at Times Square, and selected Watsons or Sasa.
Origins - 6 locations. City'super stores (level 3 of the Habour City mall in T.S.T). counter at Log-On Festival (mall). The New Face by Sogo (across from Sogo dept store), Causeway Bay. Duty free Gallera, TST. Telford Plaza, Kowloon Bay. Free-standing store at Sha Tin Plaza.
Orlane Mannings or Watsons at Grand Century Plaza, Shatin Plaza.
Perfect Potion a new Australian line that opened at The New Face At Sogo in March. Skincare based on herbal ingredients, like Julique and Aseop. Also available on shelves at Log-On and citysuper.
Phytotherathrie French haircare, available at citysuper (and divisions like Log-On, Powder Room) with self-help testers and counter Festival Walk Watsons.
Pupa - Italian cosmetic line, available at Watons in Festival Walk. Website pupa.it
H2O+ - everywhere now. Habour City, T.S.T. Shatin Plaza. Mongkok. Landmark, Central. Local website HK's H2O+ site
Shu Uemura - everywhere, but always as a free-standing boutique. Landmark basement (Central station, exit E/F), Ocean Terminal/Center ZoneB TST, Festival Walk.
Shiseido- everywhere, check out the Pieds Nus line (exclusive to Asia). You can see their seasonal collection at collection on the PN section on Shiseido's wesbite There's a few products worth looking at but most are average. Check out their cheek liquid stain, only $150 for a bigger tube than Benefit Benetint. 4 colors too, rose, red, cool pink, and brown/tawny. Packaging is always gorgeous, sleek and sometimes a little queer.
5S (Shiseido) - free-standing at Island Centre, 1 Great George Street, (exit E, across Sogo next to Daimaru) Causeway Bay. Phone no. 28080555. Also counter in Seibu, Pacific Place, Lane Crawford Times Square. Website five-s.com
Sisley - very $ botanical skincare that uses very expensive top-of-the-line ingredients like ginseng. Lane Crawfrod dept. store at Pacific Place has their skincare and cosmetics, 11/F Sogo has salon treatments as well. And of course Sasa has the great discounts.
Strendhal French brand, skincare and cosmetics. Pink-based foundations. Mannings at Mongkok exit B1 and Mannings at one of Sha Tin connection mall. Not very popular here.
Stila - Seibu dept store and Joyce chains.
Tony & Tina - Seibu, Pacific Place. Sogo department store, Times Square, Causeway Bay.
T Le Clerc - Lane Crawford (TST and Pacific Place), Joyce dept. store, Festival Walk Watsons, and Seibu. The biggest counter is at Beauty Clinic by Su, Times Square, Causeway Bay. Also at Beauty Clinic: Coloniali and Rene Futerer skincare + hair care.
Trucco cosmetics at Festival Walk's Watsons drugstore, Privat-i salon at Galleria, Central (ph: 2521 3028). May also be available at Hipp.fish - a hair, nail, and make-up salon. Ph 28153638, the salon is at 1/F, 23 Hollywood Road (beside the escalator), Central.
Urban Decay - Free-standing in Festival. Self-help shelves at DFS Galleria (TST) which has all the products, including the flaming five lip gunk set, except foundations.
YSL - Sogo dept. store, DFS Galleria.
OPI nail polishes - some salons.
Versace Seibu PP, Admiralty. DFS Galleria, Versace clothes stores (e.g. Landmark)
We live like this skincare and baths stuff at G.O.D. (love this store and their funky candles).
Yomano - Japanese skincare brand famous for it's clay mask. I'm not sure if this is clever marketed created hype or real hype. Also sell brushes and cosmetics. 2375 9698. Freestanding store in TST, Festival Walk, and Causeway Bay. Website: doronko.co.jp
Yonka Ph 25280038
Young Blood mineral cosmetics. Ph: 2665669665
Yves Rocher - French botanical line with a skincare line as extensive as Lancome or Estee Lauder. The green tea scent, which is so in these days in the world of fragrance, is available as a shower gel for only $55, it's also available as a deoderant scent. There are also facial treatments available. Festival Walk, KLT, Ocean Terminal ZoneB (next to Shu Uemura). Grand Century Plaza, Mongkok (KCR station only). Website yvesrocher.com

cold uninviting Glycel

Crabtree & Evelyn store

Molten Brown skincare

Phytotherathrie haircare

Soigne skincare

Made-in-Hong Kong, totally local brands:

The House of Kwong Sang Hong* has been around since 1898 and it's still using the old-China packaging that looks so funky, distinctive and nostalgically beautiful on their skincare, fragrance, and cosmetics products. I think they make great (not to mention actually useful) souvenirs! If you're not into skincare products they also sell old style wrapping paper and stationery. Available at Shop 306 (next to Darphin Beauty Centre) Grand Century Plaza, (KCR, not MTR, Mongkok station). Phone: 22349236. Website: ksh.com.hk

TUB The Ultimate Bath prettily packaged bathbombs designed here by local company but handmade in Australia. They come in singles, $60, trios, and the Christmas treat called Seven Days of Wonder for $180 (that you can also break up to give to friends seperately). Scents includes Franjipani, Lavander, Mandarin, Lemon Sorbet, Peach, Cherry, and others. * if you are a baths stuff fan. Sold at citysuper! (Times Square, Causeway Bay. Habour City, TST). Log-On (Festival Walk, KLT), Powder Shop (Telford Plaza). Website theultimatebath.com Home-goods and candle lovers have to check out GOD* stores, they have they most unique baths and candle stuff. Besides their own line (baths products with Gingerlily or the Orange & Rosemary scents) they also stock icolonali and We Live Like This baths stuff. There's one at Festival Walk, and Ap lei chau. There's another handmade baths line that may be local, Origin (no s) bathbombs. Standard shape, 12 or so diff scents. Also avail at City'Supers.

FL Professional* mainly cosmetics and a small selection of skincare. Low price range, e/s singles are $50, plus testers and SAs. They also have 3 and 6 (slotted) silver compact for slotting on your favourite shades. But they are probably best known for their great quality brushes for incredibly low prices. Apparently lots of local make-up artists use them. Free standing store at Grand Century Plaza, Mongkok (KCR only). A selection of items is available at a semi-counter in Watsons in Festival Walk.

Who's Aromist website: whosgroup.com has some nicely packaged bath salts, facial powder clay masks, and of course, aromatherapy goods. Beside their own label they also carry Kiss My Face skincare kissmyface.com, plus a wooden-case lipstick collection (forgot the brand name). Prices vary from good deals to expensive.

Asian exclusives:

You can also check out Max Factor's high-end side in Asia. They sell some of the same stuff for twice the price here b/c it is high-end (with nicer packaging of course), but they also have skincare from their SK2 line which is only available in Hong Kong, Taiwan, and recently Singapore. It's intended for more mature skin types so needless to say I can't offer any opinions on it. The big deal on it is apparently a patented chemical derived from yeast. The skincare line is very popular here and in Taiwan with local celebs and socialites. Prices for the skincare line is around $400-$500. The SK2 wet dry compact powder foundation is $490, SK2 skin repairC foundation $530, SK2 Whitening Liquid Foundation $450. They are still found in drugstores, but behind counters. That's normal here, most dept. store lines like Dior, Shiseido, Orlane, will have individual counters in drugstores, no different in set-up to ones found in dept stores, only the SAs tend to be better train at major dept. stores (if they are available at both types). They also have a huge SK2 counter/store called Beautique, complete with skin analyser, huge screens, and the works at Sogo Causeway Bay, 11/F. The 11/f is their brand new floor devoted to super counters. Many brands like Clarins and Lancome have facial treatments available there. Website sk2.com

Soigne- their store will stock Japanese skincare line Soigne and also a full make-up line called wAtOsA w/ cute packaging. It has magnetic palettes, paper packaged lipsticks - only unlike Stila you can buy seperate metal cartilage to fit on to your lippies, a Japanese version of Fast Lash lash fibre and other stuff. Soigne at Festival Walk. Habour City Gateway2 TST. Ocean Centre, TST. Causeway Bay Fashion Island, 37 Paterson St (exit E, turn left from the exit entrance, and turn left again around the street corner), Causeway Bay Winsor House, 311 Gloucester Rd. Sheung Wan Wing On dept store, skincare only counter at Seibu. See Watosa website (in Japanese only but with English icons, very navigatable), or our unofficial catalog

Two hot new Japanese lines to arrive in Hong Kong are IPSA and RMK. IPSA has a counter at Seibu (Pacific Place, Admiralty), Lane Crawford Times Square and Sogo. The line is used by some local celebrities & make-up artists, and Japanese stars. Somewhat of a cult status line like MAC is, and they are most famous for their foundation. Base Color EM or EC $290 (9 shades) Skincare: metaboliser $400-$500 approx. Oil Control Base Powder $240, Touch Up Color (concealor palette with yellow-toned shades) $200. It's so hyped up apparently when this line launched there were queques (lines) to the counter. Website: (Eng avail) ipsa.co.jp

RMK arrived just a little later, also at Seibu. The line is created by a big Japanese make-up artist Rumiko (female), has only been around for 3 years (from 97) but the celebrity list include: Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Cindy Crawford, Demi Moore, Drew Barrymoore. Their best seller is the foundation and foundation base line. Prices: Creamy Make-up Base HK$260, Liquid Foundation $320. mascara $210, eyeshadow trio, with brush, dull metal silver compact and mirror inside, is a whopping $380 - which is foundation price range! Website rmkrmk.com.

Both brand have very white sleek-&-modern but essentially plain packaging and counters, RMK does have some funky looking herb soap bars which has tiny specks of herbs in it. The liquid foundation with words like"Open-up", "Choose me", and "Take me" on is cute too. They also have a very browse-friendly counter, a huge mirror tilted up all the way across the testers stand makes it easy to try on as many shades as you like.

Speaking of Japanese brands, there's also Kose, Sofina (Aube), Kanebo. Kose is huge with big subdivision lines, some of them quite well known like T'estimo (lipsticsks are nice and moisturizing). There are probably more than I can remember or count. Kose and Shiseido also have drugstore priced lines that sells everything from handcream, cotton make up remover pads to sanitary pads (a sort of Asian P&G). Available at Sogo. Dainaru (Japanese) dept. store, Causway, or maybe Mitsukoshi (also Causeway). One of our writer, Karen, was very impressed with Kose's Esprique line, see review. Websites: Kose, Sofina, Kanebo.co.jp. Prices for Kose: Cosme Decorte Water Pact Case $200, Intellige Natural Veil Pack ss Case $220. Intellige Natural Up Base $225. Cosme Decorte AQ Grace Shade foundation $675 (!!! Ouch. Highest pricetag I've seen so far on foundation).

Kesalan Patharan (Japanese) is available at Sogo and Seibu, and recently a new store opened in Ocean Terminal TST. Korean website (again, very easy to browse because of the English icons).

Shiseido Pieds Nus line is exclusive to Asia, see above 'by brand' ref list. See also Fancl and Yomano, 2 Japanese skincare lines.

Also a few brands from Australia: Smack and Arnaud available at Joyce. And herbal Kiehls + Philosophy-lookalike Perfect Potion skincare and aromatherapy at Log-On and The New Face by Sogo (see above store reference). Not exclusive to Asia but there's tons of Bloom.

Wait, we're not finished yet, turn over to page 2 of our guide for great bargains. -->