Monday, May 28, 2001 Orientation at 0800 breakfast. I was assigned Mask, a pinto with walleye (right side). Looks a little slab-sided - will see. Mask turned out to be okay. He needs two saddle pads and obeys pretty well. They use bosal-type halters and run the lead line under breast collar up and around horn, back under breast collar and tie on with saddle strings. Saddles have pockets on each side and Jerry got me a slicker from the ranch’s collection. To mount, face the horse’s rear (on side), hold reins and mane (if any) in left hand, twist near stirrup, grasp horn with left hand holding left arm from the wrist to elbow on horse’s shoulder for a pivot point, put left leg on horse’s side as well and swing up and into the saddle. Haven’t tried it yet. Ride was short, beautiful. Saw antelope close up, the Lozier burial stone (Walt/Nancy and their parents on each side). Bridle was too short and had to adjust that. It’s just like JJ’s except it has no throat latch. Ride was about 2 ½ hours. Afternoon - 1500-1800 ride to Willow Lake @ 8800’. Game - saw a moose cow trot right to left across entire panorama. Good view for a long time. Saw mule deer doe, large ears above the sage brush. Lots of badger holes - at home we call out "ware, hole." Here you’d get sore throat there’s so many holes. Ranch has seen black bear and black wolves. Grizzlies at Green River - not right here. Mountain sheep, pumas and other species around. Lots of chipmunks, ground squirrels, gophers. Rained and some lightning for a short time…stopped ‘till we got home. Started again. John - Head Wrangler - was born on Shoshone (pronounced Show-Shon) reservation. We talked quite a bit about the Shoshone (also known as The Snake People) and Northern Arapaho. Lots of alcoholism among the Indians here too. Wind picked up and stampede string came in handy. I wore brown thermal jacket this morning, and heavier barn coat this afternoon. Felt good. We’re branding tomorrow. Should be some de-horning and castrations as well. Helped wranglers feed horses after last ride. They tie horses in pairs to the rail (facing each other with the rail between them)so that two can eat from one feed bucket placed on the ground. We’ve been split into three riding groups. Don’t know if by riding skill or not. We trotted some today, but no cantering yet. Told John and Irv how impressive operation is. Patrick is another wrangler, most polite and helpful. We were told it's better to use a water bottle than a canteen for some reason, so my new canteen will probably stay in the bunk house. With my history of "pit stops," I only take a few sips on trail anyway. The country we rode in today was where the "Marlboro Man" commercial and ads were filmed. We saw the Saw-Tooth mountains, as well as the Wyoming and Wind River ranges. Wednesday we go all the way to Jeffrey City which is down and around the Wind River range past Lander for a cattle roundup. There are 56,000 head grazing on these ranges of which 400+ belong to the Box R. Irv spoke about visiting a ghost town and maybe staying overnight in Jeffrey. We’ll see. Grilled pork chops (excellent), salad, scalloped potatoes, cauliflower & broccoli, excellent desert again.
Tuesday, May 29, 2001 Met in dining area at 0530 for coffee and Danish. Will haul horses to neighbor’s ranch to brand, cut, doctor, de-horn. Left ranch at 0630. Returned @ 1615. Trailered 12 horses (probably two too many…packed in like sardines. Six in front of separator and six behind. Big Piney called "ice box" of USA. Coldest temp recorded at -64. Three weeks of -20/-30 degree weather. Visited Circle Cattle Co. Met Gordon and Jim Mickelson (the owners) and "Pork Chop," a wrangler out of Michigan. Worked 250 calves who were with 273 cows (523 head). Moved cattle along fence to branding pen. Once in, there were about 30 wrestlers, 3 branders, 1 doctor, and 1 cutter (Gordon). Several did the de-horning. Calf is roped by rear leg(s) and dragged to branding area. No fires anymore…propane is used with brands stacked on a heating shelf. Two wrestlers (one at the head and one at the feet) flank (throw) calf to ground, legs held away from the men. Header kneels on it’s throat and folds closest foreleg, while heeler puts one leg on the calf’s hock (closest to the ground) and the sole of his right boot over it's "hole," pulling the top leg straight out towards him. Calves are quite strong and you have to watch for head butting and kicks, especially from their rear hooves. There are two brands used at the Mickelson ranch - a circle on the side, middle area just under the spine and a slanted bar on the hip. Doctor injects two shots and marks hide with an orange line. De-horner tool is called a spoon or shovel, about 4" in length that fits over each button, is twisted to cut into knob and pushed to the side to snap it off. There’s some heavy bleeding so powder is sprinkled on to congeal the blood and foil screw worm invasion of the wounds (Fay Ward's book, "The Cowboy At Work," says that dehorning has fallen into disfavor among many ranchers because of the additional cost and chance of infections). Cutter grabs the calf’s scrotum and makes vertical incision between the testicles. Each in turn is stripped out, cord pulled down about six inches and the cords are cut simultaneously. There’s little or no blood from procedure. We had lots of manure on the ground and couldn’t help getting some on clothes and chaps (pronounced "shaps" out here). The calves bawl like crazy and are pretty scared. Some of the mothers tried crowding the cowboys looking for their babies. Quite a few people had minor injuries from kicks, etc. I had a slight nose bleed when one raised it’s head up and banged me. I prefer the legs. Hind wrestler just pulls and stretches. I only did about 8 calves - left it to the younger fellas. A gal in the group got some pictures and hope they turn out. Cows are not the smartest. Calves separated from their mother sometimes run away from the herd and noise when released. A calf that’s abandoned or whose mother didn’t have enough milk is called a "bummed calf" - "dogie" in the southwest. Ranch presently has 28 bums whose care falls to a wrangler named Tony, who feeds them a special diet...it’ll take to September to get weight back on them. Met three brothers from California (Baird, Jason and Craig, the latter a police officer). All RKBA folks. Trailer had flat tire upon arrival and boys had hard time getting such a large trailer high enough to change it. Had to dig a hole out from underneath to do it. Truck is Ford 350 Powerstroke Diesel and they don’t like the auto transmission. Hope mine does alright. Ranch dogs are Bear (cattle dog), Dakota (Siberian Husky) and Katie (Catahoula). Katie is friendly - others...no way. Irv and Robin have a small gray poodle named Annie. They set up a high chair for her at meals. She’s lovable and gets in your lap readily. Irv’s Auntie Dot was here yesterday. She was adopted by Irv’s family. Lights are on after 10pm too! Tomorrow we go to Jeffrey City (rattlesnake country). Gordon’s last name is Mickelson.
Wednesday, May 30, 2001 Leaving ranch at 0600. Need to rise about 0430. Jeffrey City probably 180 miles or more. Taking three horse trailers. Jerry and sons driving over and invited me to return with them. Might do that - we’ll see. Woke at 0245 - cat napped from then on. 19 hour day. Up at 0425 and back inside cabin at 2335. Still have to bath and write journal. Wrist swollen after branding and sore. No "Charlie horses" in it yet and not stopping the riding so far. Judy’s last name is NELL. Dick and she own the Waukesha Tool & Stamping Company. Dick's a world class hunter and has taken record trophies on every continent except Australia. Both are super nice, down to earth people. Had trailer flat on way out, half way to Jeffrey. Distance is 173 miles one way and took five hours to and a little less coming back. Drove about 50 head of cattle 7 miles or more. One calf (we called him Norman) had a hard time keeping up and was panting toward end. It’s better to move cattle in early morning because they tire quickly. Little one had "scours" or diarrhea. Drove cattle to water station, left them get their fill and moved them far enough to leave horses do same. Mask was quite good and willing, though these are not trained "cow" horses (used for cutting). Irv says horses have no problem with sand colic. (Ranch yesterday was Gordon and Jim Mickelson, branding @ 430 calves). At watering hole a thunder head formed over nearby mountains and moved eastward around us. Got a little wet, but dried out nicely. Pierson and Dean turned over a water pan (about 6’ diameter) and Pierson got inside while Dean rolled it like a drum. They’re a hoot. Toilet - no trees for 50-100 miles, except on the foothills. Ladies and gents head to the lower side of a knoll and go. Land looks flat, but crevasses are deep enough to hide a full grown cow or a rider on horseback. Cattle were on the side of mountain. Outriders and drag moved them (SLOWLY!) into a bunch about 100’ wide. Several got into a water pond and Pierson went in after those - steep footing and ramble bushes. Pushed them across road (these are long gravel roads - one to Mickelson’s was 17 miles), against fence and into a small corner where only two or three could pass gate where a wrangler counted head and made sure of brands. Ranches mix cattle on open range, gather any found and sort closer to home. The rest of us followed Irv’s directions passing through various washes and cutouts or heading toward a wrangler stationed on top of a foothill for guidance. Ride was 15-17 miles. Saw a rattler (it holed up), sage grouse flushed just in front of me, white wild stallion at full gallop and loads of pure black bands of wild horses. Beautiful! Also, saw two dead wild horse carcasses which really got the cattle’s attention - they stopped and smelled them for a long spell. Ate supper at the Split Rock Bar and Café, Pinedale. We just had cheeseburgers and fries with 3 hour ride ahead of us. Saw three mule deer at road’s edge and 4-5 jack rabbits on ranch road. Anita drove us home. Megan handled breakfast this morning (cereal, coffee and muffins). We played musical vehicles leaving some at various places. Irv left his Suburban and drove the van. We were to leave Joe and Jane’s car (crowded) and take the Chevy. Irv left keys in ignition, but locked doors! Jane fished side vent open with pocket knife and saved the day. Horses were untacked before we left so all we had to do was remove bosals and turn them out. 1230am. Goodnight! (Rode with Levitt’s this morning).
Thursday, May 31, 2001 Some going back for more branding. I’m going to see what else Irv’s doing here. If nothing else, may ride alone. Friday Irv’s running horses; it’s lots of trot and canter so I don’t know if I want that or not. Too many badger holes! Up at 0700. Yesterday weather note: Milder breeze that usual and plenty warm. We had heavy coat and slicker tied on, but I wore the brown jacket and gloves (too much sun otherwise) though they’re for winter and hands were hot. Went with Irv to brand again. Gordon (doctm@usa.net) Mickelson, DVM, Big Piney, Wyoming, says his ranch is 16,000 acres since 1888. We were at main homestead today. Calves were larger and meaner than Tuesday’s. Patrick, Box R wrangler (the outfit’s rough rider), was knocked cold by a kicking calf. Was hit in lower jaw but is okay. Cowboys like their beer. They had pop, but most coolers were devoted to the brew. Pot bellies show it, though they rope and brand like youngsters. Gordon will be 51 tomorrow. Picked up three more ear cuttings for the boys. Cuts are made as part of brand and help wranglers identify their cattle when mixed with neighbors’ on the range. Ate my one and only "mountain oyster." It’s sort of an initiation (though these folks love them and restaurants even serve them). Town’s around here are very small. One cow had porcupine quills in it’s nose, so they brought her down and picked them out. I have three in exposed film container and hope to mount them somehow. 189 branded today. One of the Mickelson crew raises blue heeler dogs and gave a pup to our newlyweds. Now that’s neighborly! Rio (Blue Water Rio) is the pup’s new name. When it was time to eat, one of the wranglers (the nice guy in the green shirt) alerted me. I said I thought the rule was, "no work, no eat." He said, "Nope, pay’s the same." Took photo of ladies in kitchen and had warm and friendly conversation with all the guys. Irv told me to call him with Excursion tire data and he’ll find out best replacement for the Firestones. I also told Judy I will send photos I think she’d like and she’ll do the same. Saw Dick and Judy write-up in Exotic Game Room book - what a thing. Full lion attacking zebra, etc. Yet, they’re down to earth folks who make you feel right at home. I haven't ridden today. May take short ride after supper. Horses were already put to pasture, so instead of riding I spent evening looking through reference books on area ranches, western art and Irv’s memorabilia. Took photos of his memorial house dedicated to friends and family and ended evening with the Levitts listening to Jerry’s stories. What a talker! Bought Lozier Box R mugs for me and the boys. Nothing else was small enough for them…T-shirts, jackets, etc. They have a nice 100 year anniversary jacket at $135. Wouldn’t mind having one, but price a little steep (but quality worth it) and I have no way to carry it home. Would have to wear a winter jacket which would be too hot. Will glance through True West magazine and hit the hay. It’s now about 2200 hours and we’re having breakfast at 0800, then tacking up for what Irv says is a 6-7 mile round up for horses. Ride will be at much faster gait. Horses may need gelding as well. We’ll see.
Friday, June 1, 2001 Horse round up - the real thing. Trailered to start point arriving at 1030. Split into 4 groups, least experienced riders posted at hill’s bottom. Rounded up about 70 head. Mask wanted to lead (my luck), but I was able to check him. Ride is rough!!! And, the cantering turned into full-blown galloping! Sage is darn tough stuff and can catch in the stirrup throwing your foot out. I had Patrick raise my stirrups and that was much better. I also put my partial plate in the pocket…it was loose and I was breathing heavy. Afraid I might loose it. Cowboy sure does have to put the foot all the way in and out in front of him. Gene, Steve and Jane were thrown. John (Head Wrangler) had severe trouble breathing. I too was breathing hard and had to force myself to fill lungs. John thinks it could be sugar problem (Jerry took blood test later and John has low blood sugar). Wranglers cut 17 or so colts for gelding either today or tomorrow. I had two saves, blocking horses from escaping…felt real good! One colt in the corral took a liking to me. I stood with Mask outside rail and clicked softly to the colt. Eventually, he moved closer and let me rub his head. On branding, the cut ear is called a "mark." A "drift" (verb) is the movement of hazed cattle or (noun) the path fenced on two sides about 60’ wide in which the cattle move. A drift runs for miles. We got back to ranch and tied horses about 1400. We’re leaving again at 1530 for a ride to flat top. Rode to and from round up with Jerry. Coming home, he was driving slow and still talking. Alisha said, "Jerry, can you drive as fast as you can talk…I’m hungry." He stepped on it and we all had a good laugh. The outriders stretch out on a line parallel with the wild bunch while several cowboys push or "haze" them from the rear. They’re determined to "break the wall" so you can’t get them moving too fast. Others post at spots just beyond the point you want them to turn, creating sort of a chute to pass through. Weather has been delightful. Glad I did the round up…glad it’s over! Dick’s going to Pinedale tomorrow and Judy said she’ll pick me up a wild rag. She asked what color and I said the more colorful the better. If I can get a Box R shirt I’ll be all set. Most of today’s riding was at a fast trot and full gallop. After lunch we had an hour break and left at 1430 for 7 mile ride into Alpine country. We got to 8500’ and could see the ranch and Willow Lake on return. 10 elk were pushed out but we in the rear (climbing single file upward) didn’t see them. The California crew were up to par. Several arrived late, one had to stop and walk by foot, all went off trail, slowed down and picked up gait-makes for a rough ride because everyone's horses want to keep up. The aspens are not single trees. They have a tap root and underground runners from which the plant grows. As they blossom you can see different colors from the different bunches. Had a nice talk with Pierson coming down. He’s finishing up a two-major degree program (his family’s in Georgia). Back is aching…hope aspirin helps. Supper call was after 8 since we ate lunch at 1430. The other night we had spaghetti, this afternoon sandwiches with broccoli and cauliflower soup, and this evening meat loaf, green beans, mashed potatoes, salad (every evening) and another excellent desert. Most folks leaving tomorrow, so the few remaining probably won’t ride tomorrow…that’s okay with me. Dick and Judy invited me to accompany them to Pinedale, so I’ll get to visit the Cowboy Store. I bought the Box R mugs (4 @ $7 each) and wanted their western shirt (¼" vertical black and white stripes with red Lozier logo over pocket). Wouldn’t you know, they only had enough for the wranglers. I also told De Anne to add additional 5% tip to bill. Staff, Irv and Robin did a fantastic job. It’s 2145 and I’m dog tired. Time to hit the sack.
Saturday, June 2, 2001 Most of the gang leaves today. Remaining folks off to Pinedale, Cowboy Store, Mountain Man Museum and High School rodeo. Yesterday was Megan’s birthday, so there’ll be cake tonight. Stopped at store and got my wild rag (red printed silk), slide (round silver ring with silver star in center), and a "used" cowboy’s heeling rope for a wall hanger. Also got a CD by Ian Tyson (recommended by Judy). The bandanna is all red with imprint blended in. Subtle, but nice. The rope is a 3/8 35’ medium-hard Money Maker. Store had lots of good stuff, but prices were about the same as back home. Went to hardware store with Dick for 50lbs of nails and PCV glue. They’re having a log home built on 50 acres looking down on the ranch. Behind them is the Jim Bridger National Forest @ one million acres. Randy’s doing a lot of the work (he has lived with the Loziers for years as a son, though not legally adopted). Cabin is by Wilderness Plymouth out of Wisconsin. We went up to site earlier today. Cellar’s dug, foundation in. Should be done outside by fall. What a location! Learned that John and Patrick are brothers and got a picture of them by the wolf mount. Dick says he’s not seen many coyotes and thinks it’s because of the wolves. Went to the Pinedale High School rodeo and had lunch there. Saw the youngsters roping calves and some bull riding. On the way back stopped for picture of Cora post office - among the oldest in Wyoming still operating. It served as a stop station, saloon, salt distribution point, etc. Got a photo of a calf standing smack in the middle of a cattle guard - munching grass. Got another one of a cow standing under a ranch sign scratching her back. Judy says Irv tells stories of knowing Roy Rogers and John Wayne. His parents, Walt and Nancy, worked winters on Ronald Reagan’s California ranch and were killed in auto accident coming back to Wyoming from there. Robin Lozier was diagnosed a long time ago with Lupus. Irv’s had enough "wrecks" to fill a book. The last one was with a bull that slammed into iron gate pushing it into him. Hit Irv in the face breaking his jaw, back and wrist. These folks sure are built of tough material. Life’s hard out here. Been cloudy all day…everyone’s hoping for rain. Haven’t had much in three months. Wyoming has tightest water regulations in country. Area has ditches all over the place (Lizzie ditch for example) that feed the various ranches. State and Forest Service decides how much water goes where. Ground squirrels abound. They’ll scamper right by on porch if you’re quiet. Took an hour nap. Didn’t help back any. Saw a nice pair of chinks I’d like to have had. Light colored leg area, basket designed darker colored belt and straps, dark stripes on each side with rendition of U.S. fifty cent coins. Didn’t have a price, but I had no way to carry them any way. Probably will regret it. As my Judy says, "I shoulda...." Wind’s been howling all day - has to be 40mph or better. No wonder a cowboy needs his "stampede" string. Had chicken-pot-pie, buns, ice-cream and cake (for Megan). Volunteered to dry dishes so girls could go to town with her. Robin and Judy got a big grin when I told them NO pictures or my wife will recruit me too! It’s 2145 now, breakfast at 0700, departure for airport at 0730. Wind’s calmed considerably…good day to fly? I meant to say that Dick’s having real problems with his ankles…rheumatoid arthritis. Judy says that eventually his angles will fuse so that he’ll be bound to a wheel chair.
Sunday, June 3, 2001 Although only three guests stayed on ‘till today, I was the only one with an early flight departure (newlyweds driving to Salt Lake City for their flight - five hour drive) and the Nell’s were driving back to Wisconsin. Ranch scheduled 0700 breakfast so I’d get my eggs and bacon! Dean drove me to the airport after "farewells" to everyone. Dakota walked over to me as we were leaving! A thunder head formed early on and before long we had some solid rain, mixing with sleet and hail. Ice formed on the road and on the lower rocks. It cleared as suddenly as it appeared and a gorgeous rainbow (colors very vivid) formed over the snow-capped mountains. What a send off! We had a 35 minute delay in Salt Lake City because of bad computer readings but actually arrived at BWI a few minutes early.
Had a grand time and met some great people. The Box R has a rich and proud history and I’m glad I got to be a part of it.
© 1997 rambling_one@email.msn.com