Medical Page

The following is a list of items for a first aid kit and a list of first aid procedures that have worked for me. However, I cannot be held responsible for anyone misunderstanding or misusing these procedures. Also, these suggestions should not be used in place of proper veterinary care. Rather, they should only be considered as suggestions and veterinary care should be sought as soon as possible.

Needs regarding a first aid kit may vary due to the differences in the distance from medical help in which you find yourself. Campers and hikers will need a more extensive kit than someone who only goes to shows or to the park. Always carry a copy of your dog's vaccination records. Also photographs of the dog in case he gets lost can be very useful.

Basic Contents
Ace bandages or Vetwrap - with vetwrap, you have the advantage of not needing pins or hooks, but you need to be careful not to apply it too tightly. It is easy to do this, and a bandage that is too tight may do more damage than not using one. If possible, always leave the end of the bandage open enough to see the two middle toes. Normally these lay close together; if they are spreading apart slit open the outer wrap of the bandage and see if this reduces the swelling.
Rolled Cotton - available at any pharmacy for padding injured legs. Increasing the amount of padding will help prevent bandages that are too tight.
Gauze squares- 2in or 3 in
Rolled Gauze
Cotton Balls
Antiseptic Towlettes - useful for cleaning small abrasions
Sock - wonderful use for unmatched tube socks. May be rolled up over leg in some bandages.
Medical tape - comes in several forms. I usually prefer the stiffer and heavier cloth tape to the paper type.
Scissors- bandage - for cutting gauze etc. rounded tips are useful if you have to remove a bandage that's already been placed, less danger to dog's skin
Scissors- heavy duty utility type - you never know what you may need to cut through. a foreign body (stick, arrow, ...) penetrates the skin NEVER remove it unless absolutely necessary. it may be placing pressure on a blood vessel deep in the wound that can cause serious bleeding when removed. Try to pad the object as best you can, bandage around it, and let the veterinarian remove it when they take over. This is especially true for chest wounds
Razor Blade or safety cutter
Germicidal liquid soap
Saline solution - may be used to flush material out of eyes or wounds. Don't use products lke Visine that may contain ingredients not for use with a damaged cornea
Alcohol - may be used to cool an overheated dog. Application to the pads and less haired areas on the abdomen will help dissipate excess heat
Hydrogen Peroxide - may be used to induce vomiting, the amount needed varies by size of dog and individual. Releases gas in stomach that stretches the organ. Vomiting usually occurs within minutes, and may continue for several minutes. Vomitus will appear foamy. Never use on an unconscious animal due to the danger of aspiration into the lungs. If a chemical was ingested, see if vomiting is recommended- it is not with some caustic agents.
Thermometer- digital - You avoid danger of mercury toxicity if it breaks. New ones are available with flexible shaft. Most will beep when temp is accurate- no timing necessary. Rectal temperature should be between 100 and 102. Temperatures over 102 to 105 are a concern, but over that they can be life threatening. Delirium will occur and permanent brain damage may result
Instant Cold Packs - never apply directly to skin as damage may occur, may be wrapped in small towel
Antibiotic ointment or cream - neosporin or similar human product or Panalog-veterinary product
Imodium AD - speak with your veterinarian for specific dosages for each dog
Benadryl tablets - useful if early allergic reaction is noted- again speak with your own veterinarian for proper dosage for each of your dogs
Penlight/small flashlight

NOTE: be extremely careful about using Non-steroidal antiinfammatory drugs in dogs. They are very sensitive to them and develop stomach ulcers very quickly- almost always some damage after just one dose

Extras
Bee sting kit - if your dog has a history of allergic reactions to bee/wasp stings, consider having your veterinarian order and show you how to use a kit they make for people with such allergies. Generally these reactions are mild, but the may progress to the point where the dog cannot breathe. The more episodes of allergic reaction he has, the greater chance for those reactions to become more severe.
The number for a poison control hotline - I have had great luck in the St Louis area with the poison control hotline for Cardinal Glen Children's Hospital. Their number is (314) 772-5200. This is a free service. A veterinary poison control hotline is operated by one of the colleges of veterinary medicine at (900) 680-000 but they require payment for the service. I believe it is $20 for the first 5 minutes, then $2.95/minute thereafter. Check the phone book in your area for a local hotline.
Spoon splint - these are made of plastic or metal and are used to immobilize front or lower hind legs. In the case of a broken bone, your goal is not to "set" the limb, but to immobilize it the prevent injury to the muscles, nerves, and blood vessels in the area.
Stomach tube - because all giant breed dogs are at extra risk for gastric dilatation and volvulus (also known as Bloat) learning how to use a stomach tube is a good idea. This tube can be passed down the dogs esophagus and into the stomach to relieve the accumulation of gas and treat early cases of bloat. NEVER force any tube if it does not pass easily. Speak with your own veterinarian about ordering a tube and marking the proper length for each of the dogs in the house. An excellent and very thorough site is available at http://www.ualberta.ca/~dc8/szbloat.htm

Many thanks to Dr. Melanie Mercer, DVM for preparing this information for us.

The Irish Wolfhound  Seizure Study

This link will take  you to the  information site for the  research currently  underway at  the University of Pennsylvania.