Historical Overview of Krakow, Poland

Around 700 AD, a Slavic chieftain known as Krak, or Krakus, founded the village that now bears his name. At that time, the many tribes in the region were politically independent from one another. Over the course of time, however, the tribes developed closer relations and eventually Mieszko, (founder of the Piast dynasty), united all the Slavic tribes as a single political entity. Mieszko ruled for over 30 years (960-992), and the year he was baptized (966) marks the birth of the Polish state.

Krakow became a Bishopric in 1000 AD and the capital in 1036. When Stanislaw, Bishop of Krakow, excommunicated King Boleslaw II, the king murdered the Bishop (1079). Stanislaw was the first Pole to be canonized (1253), and his shrine and sarcophagus can be seen in the cathedral (see below).

The city was ravaged by Tatars in 1241 and, somewhat later, the entire nation slipped into a period of feudal disintegration. Poland was reunited under Wladyslaw I who was crowned king in 1320. Krakow then became the residence of the royal family which it remained until 1596. Casimir III (Casimir the Great) succeeded Wladyslaw I and ruled from 1333-1370. Casimir III was the last Piast king. Known as the King of Peasants, Casimir curbed the power of the nobility, codified the law, built towns and frontier castles, encouraged trade, allowed persecuted Jews to settle in Poland (a fact alluded to in the movie, Schindler's List), and founded the University of Krakow (1364).

Jadwiga, elected queen by the nobles, ruled from 1384-1399. She married Jagiello, Grand Duke of Lithuania, who ruled as King Wladyslaw II. The Jagiello dynasty ruled until 1572 during which time Poland became a European power. Jadwiga and Jagiello restored the University of Krakow which had fared poorly after the death of Casimir. Today, Jadwiga is venerated as a saint in Poland. The university was later renamed the Jagiellonian University.

The Renaissance reached Poland in the reign of Sigismund I (the Old, the Great) who ruled from 1506-1548. Although a Catholic, he accorded royal protection to Jews making Poland the most tolerant state in all of Europe. A patron of the arts, he rebuilt Wawel Castle in the Italian style. Sigismund II, his son, died without an heir in 1572 ending the Jagiello dynasty. The Vasa (Waza) dynasty followed and soon afterwards the capital moved to Warsaw. Under the Vasa dynasty, Poland became involved in wars with Sweden, Russia, Turkey, and somewhat later with Prussia and Austria. During the first partition of Poland (1772), much of the nation's territories were divided among Russia, Prussia, and Austria. The same three powers again partitioned Poland in 1793. Following a peasant uprising led by Thadeus Kosciusko (1794), Polish patriot and veteran of the American War of Independence, Poland was partitioned yet a third time (1795). After the third partition, Poland disappeared from the map.

During the partitions, Krakow alternated between the occupying forces. At one time, in the wake of Napoleon, Krakow was its own state. The Republic of Krakow lasted from 1815-1846, but then returned to Austria. An independent Poland was re-established after World War I, but the nation was again occupied when the Nazis (and Soviets) invaded in 1939. Krakow served as the headquarters for the Nazis in Poland during World War II. During that time, the Jewish population of Krakow was sealed off in a ghetto. Many Jews were deported to concentration camps (Auschwitz and Birkenau are just outside the city and tours may be arranged). In March 1943, on the order of Nazi collaborator Hans Frank, the ghetto was liquidated ending over 600 years of Jewish life in Krakow. Soviet troops "liberated" the city in 1945. Fortunately, little war damage was incurred. After World War II, a Soviet controlled Polish state was established. Communists dominated the government until forced to recognize independent worker unions such as Solidarity led by Lech Walesa. The first non-Communist prime minister was elected in 1989.

Wawel Cathedral is to Poland what Westminster Abbey is to England. A must for the student of art, architecture, or history, there is more to see than can be listed here. A guidebook or a tour is recommended. The cathedral is open weekdays and Saturdays from 0900 to 1730 May through September, 0900 to 1500 other months, and from 1215 on Sundays. Small group guides can be hired at the Waza Gate entranceway. Some of the more prominent sites to see in the cathedral are listed below.

At the very center of the cathedral is the silver sarcophagus and canopied Shrine to St. Stanislaw. The remains of the saint have rested here since 1254. This was the site of coronations and where trophies of war were displayed. The oldest burial site is that of Wladyslaw I whose sarcophagus was placed in the Cathedral soon after his death. The 14th century Cross of Queen Jadwiga, where the queen often knelt in prayer, is at the eastern end of the ambulatory. The queen herself is entombed in an elegant white Carrara marble sarcophagus. The sarcophagus of Casimir the Great is a masterpiece carved in red marble. The Sigismund Chapel is considered the finest example of Renaissance art in Poland. Here rest the last two Jagiellons, Sigismund I (the Old) in the top sarcophagus and his son Sigismund August II below. In the Chapel of the Holy Cross (15th century) lie the remains of Casimir III (d. 1492) in a sarcophagus carved from red Hungarian marble by Veit Stoss. In the Royal Tombs below the cathedral, see the Crypt of St. Leonard (built 1090-1118) considered the most beautiful Romanesque interior in all Europe. Here you'll also find the gray marble sarcophagus of Thadeus Kosciusko (who holds a place of prominence in our own history).

The original Wawel Castle was a Gothic structure built by Casimir the Great. It was rebuilt in Florentine style by Sigismund the Old. It was a grand palace until the capital moved to Warsaw. After that, it was largely ignored and allowed to dilapidate. It also suffered heavily from occupying forces during the partitions. The Prussians even melted down the royal crown and sold off its jewels. It was pillaged and used as a barracks by the Austrians. Reconstruction was begun in 1880. During World War II, Hans Frank used the castle as his private residence and allowed his Nazi associates to live there, but he also restored parts of the castle. Fortunately, many treasures were hidden before the Nazis arrived, and others were later found (often at auctions). The most impressive art that remains in the castle are several Flanders tapestries. In the Jadwiga and Jagiello Room is displayed the Szczerbiec, a 13th century sword used in Polish coronations. Otherwise, you will find some interesting architecture, excellent paintings, and medieval weapons.

The Market Square

At the center of the medieval city (the Stare Miasto) is Rynek Glowny ("market square"), the largest square of medieval Europe. Here, Kosciusko called the peasants to arms. On the square you will find:

• St. Adalbert's is the oldest building on the square and first church founded in Krakow (10th century).
• The tower, all that remains of the 14th century Guildhall.
• The Sukiennice, a 14th century Cloth Hall, with a 16th century roof complete with gargoyles.
• Mariacki or St. Mary's (shown above), founded in 1222 but destroyed by the Tatars in 1241. The present church was built between 1355-1405. One of the finest Gothic structures in the country, it is the source of the hejnal. During a Tatar raid, the watchman at the top of the tallest tower sounded his trumpet to warn of the Tatar's approach. His alarm was cut short by an arrow through the throat. Today, every hour on the hour, a lone trumpeter plays the mournful hejnal melody always ending abruptly at the point where the watchman was hit. Inside, in the Chapel of Our Lady of Czestochowa, is a copy of the Black Madonna. The main attraction of the church is the High Altar carved by Veit Stoss between 1477-1489, considered one of the finest existing examples of late Gothic art. Just out the south door of the church is the Gothic St. Barbara's church where Poles were forced to worship when Austrians occupied the city.

Downtown Area

• To the west of the Rynek Glowny is the university district. The university's most famous student was Nicholas Copernicus (heliocentric theory of the solar system). The Gothic Collegium Maius, with its arcaded courtyard, is the oldest existing building (15th century). It is now the University Museum. Inside is the Alchemy Room used by Dr. Faustus, and the Treasury Room with the famous copper Jagiellonian globe (1510), which features the earliest known illustration of America as "a newly discovered land."
• St. Peter & St. Paul Church, about halfway between the main square and Wawel Hill along Grodzka street, was the first Baroque church in Krakow.
• Next door to the Peter and Paul church is the Romanesque St. Andrews where Krakovians huddled in defense against the Tatars.
• To the north of the Rynek Glowny, at the end of Florianski street, is the 14th century Furrier's Tower and Florian's Gate, entranceway for the royal family in processions to Wawel Hill. Originally there were 47 towers around the city. Now there are only four. Along each side of the gate are remnants of the original city walls (where artists now display their wares). Just beyond Florian's Gate is the Barbican, a 15th century defensive structure noted for its Egyptian design.