BOXER U
On February 24-25, 2001, I had the great pleasure of attending Mrs. Trotter of Vin Melca Norwegian Elkhound fame’s seminar. Mrs. Trotter, author of the book "Born To Win", is the breeder of such great Norwegian elkhounds as Ch’s Vin Melca’s Howdy Rowdy, Vagabond, The Smuggler, Calista, and Marketta. In a breeding program which has spanned over four decades, Mrs. Trotter has bred hundreds of Champions, many of whom have gone on to become Best In Show, Best in Specialty Show, and Westminster Hound Group winners.
MAKING OF A MASTER BREEDER
What goes into becoming the "master breeder" that Mrs. Trotter undoubtedly is? I hope to share some of her comments, condensed from two days of nonstop dialogue as well as decades of practical "in the trenches" experience.
Becoming a breeder requires no preplanning, no preparation work, and no studies. This is unfortunate, and results in either the back yard breeder mentality or the steady influx of yet more mediocrity into the gene pool. In Mrs. Trotters’ opinion, while it is a common occurrence for the young breeder to start with a mediocre bitch and attempt to "breed up", this mindset has become the "fast food" of the breeder community…fast, easy, causing permanent damage to the gene pool and while it appears to create that "instant" success…is of little lasting benefit. The downfall of any breed happens when it goes from having a useful purpose to becoming a luxury item. This has certainly been the case in our own breed. The increased popularity of any breed is a warning to all breeders, and the rise in the breeding of mediocre specimens rises accordingly.
It is interesting to note that within any breed, all dogs can be traced back to a handful of founder dogs…the ‘fathers" of the breed. In our own country, all boxers traced back far enough lead directly to Lustig, Utz, Rolf, Dorian and the like. A small gene pool indeed, and yet some are able to work within this gene pool and create mediocrity, while others create truly great breeding programs with dogs who are not only memorable but play a heavy influence in the breed today.
The difference is summed up in one word, SELECTION.
A true master breeder is able to breed better dogs using fewer numbers, based on wise selection. Whether it be the selection of a foundation bitch, or assessing the faults and virtues of a stud dog, settling for mediocrity will get you exactly more of the same, while breeding for greatness will result in get that have the potential to be great themselves.
Before ever hoping to become a master breeder, one must first become a master dog person. To do so, you must:
In Trotter’s opinion, there is less room for a breeder to make mistakes than for a judge to do so. While a judge’s poor decision may make a minor ripple, a breeder’s poor choice will have a lasting and permanent effect. A great breeder breeds not just for themselves, but also for "the breed". A master breeder breeds dogs that have a lasting impact on the breed, not just their own breeding program.
The concept of breeding what you have, keeping what you breed, and showing what you keep is a bad one indeed if the dogs you begin with are of less than superior quality themselves. Certainly, we need to acknowledge that even the breeding of superior prospects will sometimes result in less than stellar pups, but choosing those superior animals to begin with increases the chance of getting excellent prospects in your whelping box.
If you can’t leave the breed better than you found it, then at least please do it no harm. (Trotter)
Think twice, breed once. (Trotter)
Both of the above quotes by Mrs. Trotter should be taken to heart by anyone even considering breeding. Breeding mediocre dogs does indeed cause lasting harm to a breed, and every serious breeder should live by the words of the second quote.
SELECTING THE FOUNDATION BITCH
Leaping from a "personal foundation bitch" (that first beloved bitch that may well have been quite unexceptional) to a "true" foundation bitch is, according to Mrs. Trotter what most breeders do. The "true" foundation bitch herself comes from classic bloodlines, carries classic breed specific traits, and comes from strong bitch lines. Acquiring a classic bitch from strong lines makes the journey from breeder to master breeder faster, as well as cheaper. A "true" foundation bitch, according to Mrs. Trotter, should carry the ability to produce not only champions, but also Best of Breed and Group winners, as well as Specialty winners.
A classic bitch carries strong "X" chromosomes from not only her dam, but also from her own sires dam. Therefore, careful pedigree assessment and having a firm knowledge of what is in that pedigree is vital.
SELECTING THE STUD DOG
When it comes to breeding, skilled selection for breed traits, type and function are all-important. Breeding is a one-generation at a time process, but with a long-term goal. Although the degree of difficulty in acquiring a given trait will dictate how quickly you move toward your goal, the best breeding is based on a selection for compatible traits.
The best breeders utilize common sense and imagination. (Trotter)
Trotter emphasized more than once that it is critical to remember that a stud dog’s only "X" chromosome comes from his dam, and that it is never a good idea to breed to a male whose dam you have never seen nor know nothing about. Remember that every daughter produced by this dog will gain that X chromosome from his dam, so if she is of poor quality herself, you will have gained nothing. Every son will gain the "Y" chromosome of the stud dogs sire, and it is important to note that only great stud dogs produce great stud dog sons.
By making selections based on generations of traits and characteristics specific to your breed, you increase the likelihood of setting that type within your own breeding program.
While national rankings can be a good thing for a breed, Mrs. Trotter had the following to say. There is a saying, that a dog is "well owned"…meaning that there are dogs in the national rankings that are only there because of the fortune the owners spent to get them there. (Please realize she was not referring to any specific breed) Having a dog become nationally ranked is the process of the subjective opinions of judges, who can be influenced by the showiness of an exhibit, personal favorites/friends, can be influenced by an extensive advertising campaign, as well as a top dog who is so handily campaigned as to never meet the other superior dogs of it’s time head to head in the ring. While there are excellent dogs to be found in those national rankings, Trotter emphasized that not every dog there is the right choice for your classic bitch.
Because the male has far more ability to damage a breed, as well as do good, precautions must be taken to reduce the margins of error in the decision making process. Great harm comes when a large number of mediocre dogs are being used at stud. Again, great sires come themselves from great sires.
SELECTING THE PUPPY
I will only touch briefly on this. Surely if you have selected wisely on the choice of dam and sire, you have increased the likelihood of having an excellent litter. However, there being no perfect dogs, Mrs. Trotter had the following advice, which I think most of us follow already. When evaluating puppies, identify the ones who appear to be the high flyers as early as possible as well as identifying the ones who are clearly destined for pets homes. Never keep a pup who has a glaring fault, as it will not improve and will come back to haunt you in future generations.
As breeders we must have the objectivity to make tough decisions. There will be times when the best laid plans backfire, and a beloved animal must be removed from the gene pool. It is far better to make that decision prior to it impacting the gene pool than afterward when the damage done is forever.
As students of pedigree study, there are things we must know in order to make good selections for our breeding programs:
When Mrs. Trotter spoke of the various "types" of breeding…."In", "Line" and "Outcross", she had the following to say. Balanced breeding is a combination of all types of breeding. True success comes from making the right selections. While there is no one right method of breeding, one of Mrs. Trotter’s statements certainly rings true. Linebreeding gives you the ability to return the prepotent genes of the ancestors back to the current progeny.
When you look at a pedigree, it tells you what a dog should be. When shown in the ring, it tells you what it seems to be. And when you breed it, it tells you what it is.
AND INTO THE SHOWRING WE GO
(Or What is The Judge Looking For)
It is amazing how complete the delusion is that beauty is good. (Tolstoy)
The show dog must be the "complete athlete", and it is our job to ensure that the dogs we present are in excellent condition. That being said, a dog that is correct for its breed should exhibit the traits that make it identifiable as such. A good judge should be able to pick the traits which give a dog the ability to do what it was originally bred to do (form and function) while being able to discard the lesser or extreme dogs (fad and fashion). As breeders, understanding the correct skeletal structure for our breed provides us with the general information for the making of greatness. Without that correct skeletal structure, the dog will never be a great dog, or a great mover.
What the judge looks for on the down & back:
What the judge looks for in side gait:
Shoulders are the most difficult thing for both breeders and judges to understand. It is the easiest thing to remove from the gene pool and the hardest to get back. In Mrs. Trotter’s opinion, straight shoulders can seduce a judge because they give the dog the appearance of having "picture perfect posture". Because there is less room for movement (and thus, error), straight shoulders can give the appearance of correct movement on the down and back, but become very obvious when judging side movement. Small rings benefit the straight-shouldered dog, while handicapping the better-built dog that needs more room to achieve reach & drive.
In brief, the judge should be looking for the total dog, with correct breed specific structure and traits, clean lines and movement, who is a true canine athlete that gives the appearance of being able to carry out his original purpose.
The goal of the breeder should be to create the correct perfect picture, both still and in motion. If the dog is great in both areas, a good judge will find it.
For those who were unable to attend Mrs. Trotter’s seminar, I highly recommend her book "Born To Win"(Doral Publishing).
Dear Potential Puppy Buyer,
Today we talked about your getting a puppy from me. I have some concerns, which I want to talk to you about.
What exactly is it that you want? First you say you want a show puppy, then say you really just want a pet, then talk about possibly breeding. You must understand that I am suspicious.
Please don't be dishonest with me. Being a con artist is not attractive, and I will sniff you out. There is no shame in wanting "just a pet" and if that is what you want, please say so. Do understand that my pets are sold on alter contracts, and that you will not be getting his registration papers until that is done, so if you think to tell me what "I want to hear" then go off and breed this dog, you are incorrect.
If what you really want is a breeding/show prospect tell me that, too.
You asked a lot of good questions today, and I will be happy to provide you with copies of the health testing we've done in the event that you do get one of my puppies. What I ask of you in return is to please call me immediately if a health problem arises. It appears that you have done some homework and tried to learn about the breed before you talked to me. There will more to learn in the future, and I hope that you will always feel free to ask me questions but that you will also continue to try to learn on your own. I can teach you what I know, but part of your responsibility to your new puppy is to educate yourself.
I've asked you for references and I will check them, but I am not the FBI. Try to be as honest with me as you want me to be with you. Do not try to "sell yourself" by making claims that aren't true. You may pull something over on me, but our relationship will be permanently damaged and I will never trust you again. I would rather sell to an honest janitor than to a dishonest executive.
I am a little insulted that you think my puppy price is negotiable. I will not gouge you, but please don't insult me by asking me to lower my price for you. What you're telling me is that you already see this puppy as having no value. That does not say good things about your future as a pet owner. People with this mentality rarely keep their dogs for life.
On the flipside of the coin, if you decide to go elsewhere, I hope that you realize anyone who is so desperate to sell their puppies that they will take "best offer" or try to sell you more than one at a reduced "two for" price are a very bad risk, and not someone I think anyone should buy from.
I may have a puppy in mind for you. Please tell me more about yourself so that I have a better idea about which of my babies will suit for you. And yes, that means you may not walk in the door and pick for yourself. I am sorry if that disappoints you, but I know my puppies - their strengths and weaknesses. It is more important to me that my puppy be happy in your home, and that you end up happy with the temperament of your new dog, than in if you get "the pretty one". If I have several puppies that I believe may equally suit you, those are the puppies I will offer to you. The rest are "not available". Don't be insulted, I do this with everyone.
If you do get a puppy from me, I ask you this. You say that you want a registered dog, so when the time comes please hold up your end of the agreement. Please don't "forget" to register him. I will be checking up on how he is doing, will remind you when the time comes for him to be neutered, and will also remind you about the registration.
I would ask that you hold yourself equally as responsible as you expect me to be. By this I mean please exercise good judgment. Provide the very best food for my baby. I am very flexible in this, realizing that different people hold different views, but I do ask that whatever you feed be of good quality.
Please take my puppy to a progressive vet who is "up" with the newest veterinary developments.
Please keep my puppy in a safe manner by utilizing a leash, a crate, and a fenced yard. Please have a care with toxic exposures, whether that is lawn chemicals, vaccinations, household products or medications/preventatives.
Please keep my puppy safe from big bad dogs, from being run over by a car, from children who are too rough, etc and yet, do not stifle this puppy's development by going too far in the other direction.
In other words,
please utilize your common sense!
You went to the trouble to find yourself a responsible breeder, now please be a responsible owner. Know that I want to hear from you. If I call you, please return my messages, and please know how thrilled I will be if you call me out of the blue! I want to know how this little guy is doing, what fun things you have done with him, what problems arise, what silly nonsense he has been up to. It doesn't have to be often, but when you have the time please stay in touch.
I ask that you always be kind to this little guy. If you hurt him in anyway, you will have taken a dagger to my heart. Always know, that even on his very worse day, I loved him first!
And when the end comes, as much as it will hurt you, let him go with grace. Do not let him suffer, and remember to give him one last stroke and a kiss from me, because I loved him first.
Yours sincerely,
Your Puppy's Breeder
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