1.
Move in close. Fill
the frame with your subjects smiling image. If using a wide angle
lens or a point and shoot lens set at the lower wide setting, don't
get too close or else the subject's nose will be exaggeratingly large.
Some cameras do not focus closer than 4ft.
2.
Watch the background.Move
your subject away from distracting background clutter. By using a
telephoto lens on an SLR with the aperture set at its largest setting,
the background will go out out focus due to limited depth-of-field creating
a soft backdrop for the subject to stand out from.
3.
Don't over cue the subject.
It's
okay to give suggestions which flatter their image but let them pose themselves
after awhile. Portrait photography involves more psychology than anything
else. Pre visualize the expression you want and then manufacture it through
subtle suggestions by way of subject interaction. For example, if you want
to bring out the thoughtful nature of your grandmother, rather than saying
"say cheese" ask her a question in an area of interest to her and watch
as her face transforms in deep thought awaiting your shutter to capture
the moment.
4.
Avoid direct midday sun.Turn
them away from the sun and shoot into the direction of the sunlight.
Use a white reflective surface to bounce some light back into the shadowed
side. This is a time tested technique used by pros when shooting
models outdoors. This creates a brilliant rim light effect
separating them from the background. Bear in mind that a clean lens
with no filters attached avoids lens flare. Keep the sun out of the
image and shield the lens from the sun by using a lens hood or your hand,
just make sure NOT to include your hand in the photo. :-) Another
option is to shoot in the shade of a tree or building. You'll get
more natural looking expressions.
5.
Use flash outdoors. This
will fill in the shadows and add catch lights in their eyes. Using
flash outdoors requires a shorter camera to subject distance due to the
existing ambient light and lack of reflective surfaces to spread the light.
Therefore make sure the subject is no further than ten feet from the camera.
5 ft for 35mm compact cameras due to their smaller built-in flash units. Use your camera's built-in balanced fill-flash if it has one.
Camera
position in relation to the subject can greatly alter the final image.
Correct camera angles can prevent distorted features or enhance or de-sentuate
certain features. For a head and shoulder shot try to keep the camera at
the subject's eye and nose level. Raise the camera slightly above the center
of the face to elongate the nose, narrow the chin, reduce broad jaw line
and broaden forehead. Lower the camera angle below the center of the face
to shorten the nose, narrow the forehead or to accentuate the chin.
For a
3/4 shot where the subject's head and torso are visible, shoot at chest
level. And for a full head to toe shot, position the camera at waist level.
My favorite
technique for portraits is to use a 35mm SLR camera outdoors on a sunny
day. I turn the subject away from the sun so their back is to the
harsh light. I then use a 85mm 1.8 lens without any filters on my
35mm SLR camera. I use a white or gold reflector to bounce extra
light into the shadowed area. All this is exposed on Fujicolor NPS
160 print film. I sometimes use a Nikon SB -28 flash bounced out
of a Lumiquest reflector to add more sparkle on dull overcast days.
In my opinion, anyone can be made to look good on film provided special care is taken for camera angle and lighting set up. Of course make-up, hair and wardrobe contribute to the final product.
I'm going to concentrate on the lighting aspects of portrait photography, since I have no make-up experience or fashion sense. :-)
There are two light sources used to illuminate a subject. There is the main light which is the primary source of illumination. Then there is the fill light used to "fill" in the shadows created by the main light. It also lowers the overall lighting ratio or contrast. Reflectors can be used to bounce light back into the shadowed areas as well.
For further lighting set-ups, there is the hair light positioned above and to the rear of the head positioned toward the subject. And finally the background light used to illuminate the backdrop from behind the subject.
The 4 basic types of portrait lighting-
Broad Lighting-
Illuminates the side of the face facing the camera. Used to widen thin or narrow faces.
Short Lighting-
Also known as "narrow lighting" illuminates the side of the face turned away from the camera. Used to narrow the face.
Butterfly Lighting-
Main light positioned directly in front of the face which casts a shadow directly beneath the nose and chin. Also known as "glamour lighting" due to its wide spread use in the early days of cinema.
Rembrant Lighting-
A combination of short and butterfly lighting. The light is positioned to one side of the face turned away from the camera.
Prominate forehead-
Tilt chin upward and lower camera position.
Long Nose-
Tilt chin upward, position face directly toward lens, lower the main light, and lower camera position.
Narrow Chin-
Tilt chin upward.
Baldness-
Lower camera position, blend the top of the head with the background.
Angular Nose-
Minimize feature by turning the face directly toward the lens.
Broad face-
Raise the camera position, use short lighting, turn the face at a 3/4 position.
Narrow Face-
Lower the main light, use broad lighting.
Wrinkled Face-
Use diffused lighting, lower the main light, use a 3/4 pose.
Double Chin-
Raise the main light, tilt chin upward, use a high camera position.
Facial Deffects-
Scars/birthmarks keep hidden on the shadowed side of face.
Prominate Ears-
Hde far ear behind the head, keep near ear in shadow, consider using a profile view.
Glasses-
Lower or raise chin slightly, use a small light source.
Deep Set Eyes-
Lower main light, use lower light ratios.
Protuding eyes-
Have the subject look slightly downwards.
Heavyset Figure-
Use short lighting, use low key lighting, use dark clothing, blend body with background tone.
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