RP:June the 9th we clear'd the Land and had a fine View of the Snowy Mountains¹ at the Back of Cape Campbell they rose too an amazeing hight in Narrow Ridges or sharp Pinnicles, being intirely cover'd over with Snow - from here we steerd to the ESE with a fine gale from the N. and NWerly quarters untill the 12th being in Latd. 46.10° S. here we got little winds Easterly which was a great disapointment to us as we designed to stand East in about 45° so as to Pass the Meridian of Otahiti before we stood up for it to refresh - the reason of this was if the Continent had existed and had come to the North as far as this we should either have found a Place to refresh in on it or else have known where to have begun early in the Spring.

On the 20th we again got the winds westerly being at Noon in Latitude 44:34° S. and in Long. 193.6 E. we now advanced pretty fast and without seeing any signs of Land nor did we expect any.

On the 27th we again began to get variable winds and mostly from the Eastward, which detaind us much, haveing chiefly very disagreable weather, the Adventure very sickly most of her crew being down in the Scurvey; in this way we continued untill....

JULY 1773. July 16th when being in 224° Longitude E. of London we bore away for the Northward, but with little better success for we now could get nothing but light NW winds and the Adventure every day growing worse so that now they had scarce men to work the Ship.

August 6th we were in Latd. 19:46 S and Longitude 227.42 Et. here we got the SE Trade wind and steering West we made great way for our much desired Port of Tahiti.

JE:AUGUST 1773. We arrived at Otaheite on the 15th August, and had very nearly been lost upon a Reef of rocks near the first Bay we stood in for, owing to its falling calm, and a strong Current setting in towards the reef, but owing to a kind providence, and great exertions on our part, we escaped the danger,² and came to an anchor, where crowds of the Natives came on board. We took on board fresh Water, got fruit; but not being a place likely to supply us with Hogs, we left it and proceeded to Matavai Bay (or Point Venus), where we arrived on the 25th. There we set up Tents on shore for the Coopers, Sailmakers, Armourers and so on, under a guard of Marines, and proceeded to refit the Ship in what was necessary.

This Island appeared to us to be the Paradice of those Seas, the Men being all fine, tall, well-made, with humane open countenances; the Women beautiful, compaired with all those we had seen, of the Middle Size, zingy, suple figures, fine teeth and Eyes, and the finest formed Hands, fingers, and Arms that I ever saw, with lively dispositions. And tho the Men were inclined to steal little things from us, yet the Women seemed free from this propensity. In fact, when we were on shore here we felt ouselves in perfect ease and safety. And we had daily Crowds of both sexes, round and on board the Ship, bringing Fruit in abundance and poultry, but few Hogs, the later of which we much wanted.

RP:SEPTEMBER 1773. Sept. 1st we weigh'd our anchors and stood out of the Bay towards the Island of Oahine [Huahine] which we got sight of the Next Day about noon; haveing Imaio [Moorea] to the South east of us; this last is a high Isle laying about 7 Leag. to the west of Otahite its Inhabitants the same as the Otahiteans and subject to Otoo who has a governor upon it.

On the 3d in the Morning we got off the Entrance of Owarre Bay [Fare] in Oahine, but the Trade wind blowing right out, we were obliged to work in and the passage being very narrow, the Adventure had the misfortune to get on a Point of Rocks, but with timely assistance we got her off without receiving any harm; and got both ships into the harbour.

Here the Natives came off with Plenty of Hoggs, which gave us great hopes, nor were we disappointed for by Night we had got fifty and next Day resolving to get as many as we could we sent Boats along-shore to purchass all they could who return'd at night loaded so that we had 200 Hoggs. This was a brave relief to us and persuing the same Plan next day we accumulated our number to 500 so that we were easy whether we got any more or not as we had no plan or conveniency to put more away.

Oahine is but a small Island in comparison to Otahite its Circumferance being only about 7 Leag. it is divided in the Middle by two Deep Bays and a narrow channel in which there is not water for a boat. Besides these Bays there are many others which run into the Land very deep - the Land in general is high and has many fine and fertile Vallies which with rocky hills form a variety of pleaseing landscapes. The whole Island has a reef of Rocks round it and the Harbour of Owarre lays at the NW End.

The day before we sail'd one of our Botanists [Sparrman] going about carelessly in the wood some of the Natives took an oppertunity to knock him down, and striping him took away his cloaths and a Hanger, telling him to go home Naked, he came and made his complaint and the King was made acquainted with it, he seem'd sorry for it but could do nothing in it as the Men were fled into the mountains and the whole island was allarmed, but said he would send for them and in the mean time [he] would go on board the ship. Happening to be up in the woods at the same time with 2 More we had like to have been knock'd in the Head for the People we found all alarm'd and we knew not what, where upon we began to walk down towards the ships but one Party attempted to hinder us, where upon another rose in our difference. Thus prepaird they were going to fight but seeing us resolved to side with our friends they thought the advantages of our weapons too great so let us go quietly down.

In the Evening Part of the things came down but no Men could be found, upon which the Old Chief was desired to go on shore which he did with great reluctance as he said the People were not found, this I think was much to his honour, but by repeated solicitations he at last went, and as we had quarrel'd with the natives we concluded it now best to be gone so fix'd on next morning to sail.

JE:We sailed again for Ulietea [Raiatea] on the 8th Sept., but before I leave Huaheine, I must notice Omai, a young Man whom Capt. Furneaux was induced to take from the Island to visit England, much against the opinion of Capt. Cook. The Man was by no means a good sample of the Country, either in figure, complexion, rank, or connection. He was a friend of the Armourer, and a fisherman, one of the lowest order, tho it is well known that he conducted himself with great propriety while in England.

To Me the People of Ulietea appeared the Handsomest (at least the Women) of any of this happy group, more courtly in their Manners and diversions, dress, etc. the Women taking more pains to set themselves off to advantage. Here they amused us two or three times by exhibiting dramatic performances to a large Party of us, to our very great entertainment. We likewise partook of an entertainment given by the Chief, consisting of a large Hog, dressed whole, in a Hole made in the Ground filled with hot Stones and Leaves (and which is called Barbecuing), plenty of fruit, and which ate very well. It is no uncommon thing for these people to eat young dogs; as one was killed and divided, our Mess had the Fore Quarter, which was served up as Lamb, and tho there was actually plenty of Fresh Pork on the table, myself and some of my Messmates eat of it - merely from curiosity, and to say that we had eat dog. And upon the same principle I have heard Capt. Cook declare that he would taste anything which the Natives might present to him for that purpose, for by such means he gained their confidence and friendship.

Here we walked about, amused ourselves, shot birds and so on, with perfect safety, in general. Yet I had upon one occasion nearly got my brains knocked out. Myself and Mess Mate Roberts had taken a walk about two miles along the Seaside, passing several Houses, when we met a Mr Fawlkner, of the Adventure, who told us that he had been greatly insulted by some people in one of the Houses we had passed. On returning, we passed the House, when Mr Fawlkner exclaimed: This is the House where the Rascals insulted me, and in he walked. We both followed, without knowing what he intended to do, but we had hardly got into the House before in came three very stout Men, with large Clubs. Fawlkner instantly took to his heels, and Roberts followed, leaving me standing in the middle of the House (the three Men between me and the door). They were both better armed than me, one having a small Sword, the other a Cut and Thrust. Mine was only a Hanger. Yet in this situation, the three Men with their Clubs held up before me, I stood composed, considering which of them I should make a lounge at, and then try to escape, when one of them opened a way for me, and beconed me to go, to my very great satisfaction.

Whether this was done from humanity towards me, or even from admiring the fortitude with which I kept my post, I know not, but whatever their motives might be, the circumstance was pleasing to me. I soon overtook my two companions, whom I rated pretty sharply for deserting me, which so mortified Fawlkner, that I thought we should have fought, for the purpose of proving that he was no coward.

Near this island lays one called Bolabola [Borabora] inhabited by the finest race of Men, and the greatest warriors, amongst them, and are most of them of a Caste called Aree Highs, who never marry, and have particular marks by tatowing on the Legs, etc. We therefore called them the Knights of Bolabola, and all our Mess conceived the idea of having some mark put on ourselves, as connecting us together, as well as to commemorate our having been at Otaheite. For which purpose, we determined on having a compleat Star drawn and then Tattowed with black, the same way as the Natives are tattowed, upon our left Breast, and, painful as this operation was, we all underwent it, and have each a very handsome Black Star on our left Breast, the size of a Crown Piece. Hence we called ourselves Knights of Otaheite, but tho we intended to keep this Badge to ourselves, yet we no sooner began to Bathe, than it spread halfway through the Ship.

One extraordinary custom at Otaheite is that the Men do not allow the Women (Pretty as they are) to Eat before them - that is, in their presence. And it is no uncommon thing to see a Chief, in a half sitting posture, with a female on each side, feeding him.

The Women, and every other person, uncover the Upper parts of the body when ever the King makes his appearance.

Having got a good stock of Hogs and fruit, we sailed from Ulietea towards the Friendly Isles on the 17th of September, leaving our kind friends of the Society Isles with much regret.

OCTOBER 1773. Arriving at Middleburg [Eua], we landed amongst a large collection of Friendly people, who received us with the greatest kindness (Cook has given a Beautiful drawing of this landing) supplying us with every thing they had, very readily - Hogs, Fowls, Yams, Fruit, etc., altho it is supposed they had not seen a European for 150 years [since Abel Tasman's visit in 1643].

From Middleburg they sailed to "Amsterdam" [Tongatapu], which they departed on the 7th of October and steered for Queen Charlotte Sound a second time - arriving on the 3rd of November. Along the way, they lost sight of the Adventure during a storm and saw no more of her during the voyage.³

JE:NOVEMBER 1773. After mooring the the Ship in a Snug Bay we got a tent on shore, for the purposes of Watering, Wooding, Mending Casks, and so on, our sails having sufferred much by the gales of Wind that we had to contend with in getting in, as well as the Ships rigging.

But here we were always much more on our guard, respecting the Natives, than we were amongst the Society Isles. We soon had some of the Natives to visit us, bringing fish to sell, which made them of great use to us, for altho it was a constant custom at New Zealand to send the small Boat to fish at daylight, yet they were the more dexterious fishermen. We had more of the Natives this time than the last, and we frequently could hear them yelling and druming all night on shore in our Bay. Some times they told us they were going [to attack] their Enemies, and then at night we were sure to hear their yells, and drums, and see their fires.

Upon one occasion, the next afternoon, Mr Pickersgill, the third Lieutenant, and two or three more, went on shore to see if they could observe anything and tho the Natives appeared very shy and jealous of them, yet in lifting up some of their coverings in a Canoe they found the Head of a young Man of about 20 or 22 years old. This they bought, and brought on board. Capt. Cook was then on Shore, but he soon came on board and found the Head upon the Capstain on the Quarter deck.

Now tho it was pretty certain that those people were Cannibals, and Capt. Cook had told them so in his former Voyage, yet he was doubted. He therefore thought this a very good opportunity to bring the Matter to a Proof. Having brought two of the principal Men with him, He told them we would not believe him that they eat Man's flesh. They said, Yes, they always eat their Enemies. He then asked them if they would eat part of the Man's head before them; they said Yes, only let it be broiled on the fire. For this purpose two slices were cut from the lower part of the Cheeks (for the Lower Jaw had been taken out to decorate the inside of their War Canoes) and just broiled on a grid-iron. When ready, it was brought to the two Men, who instantly eat it with all the avidity of a Beef Steak, to the utmost horror of the Whole Quarter deck, and many of the people, and to none more than Oedidee, the Native of Ulietea, who cryed at the sight, and said a great deal to them to induce [them] to relinquish so Horrid a custom, but to no purpose, we suppose, for they only laughed at both him and us.

Having gotten everything ready for Sea, and given time for the Adventure to rejoin them, Cook resolved "...not to leave the coast without looking for her, where I thought it most likely for her to be". It was with this view that they sailed from New Zealand on the 25th of November, on 'Discoveries towards the South Pole', and fired Signal Guns as long as they could see the Land, but without any answer.

CJC: At daylight in the morning of the 26th, we made sail round Cape Palliser, firing guns as usual as we ran along the shore. In this manner we proceeded till we were three or four leagues to the north-east of the cape, when the wind shifting to north-east, we bore away to Cape Campbell, on the other side of the strait. Soon after seeing a smoke ascend, at some distance inland away to the north-east, we hauled the wind, and continued to ply till six o'clock in the evening; which was several hours after the smoke disappeared, and left us not the least signs of people. Every one being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could neither be stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours thereof, I gave up looking for her, and all thoughts of seeing her any more during the voyage; as no rendezvous was absolutely fixed upon after leaving New Zealand. Nevertheless, this did not discourage me from fully exploring the southern parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of which I intended to employ the whole of the ensuing season.

On our quitting the coast, and, consequently, all hopes of being joined by our consort, I had the satisfaction to find that not a man was dejected, or thought the dangers we had yet to go through were in the least increased by being alone; but as cheerfully proceeding to the south, or wherever I might think proper to lead them, as if the Adventure, or even more ships, had been in our company.

© 1999 Michael Dickinson

Captain Furneaux's Notes

This page hosted by Get your own Free Home Page