Newsletter

Well, we're well into winter, and it's a real winter this year. Pretty chilly all around the country, and snow on the mountains. And the outlook is for a good flower season in Namaqualand.

Tourism in South Africa has levelled off considerably. In my field - group tours from well-established operators - there have been quite a few cancellations from American groups, and those that are running are not as full as they used to be. This could be due to the tragic events of 11 September 2001, or general nervousness about the direction of the US economy.

Group tourism from Britain and Germany seems to be holding steady. However, independent tourism from Europe is growing strongly, and the gains in this area outweigh the losses in groups, so all in all, South Africa can feel quite pleased.

It also means that there are that many more independent travellers who may be able to benefit from the information on this website.

The shambles continues. While Victoria Falls remains a safe destination, very few people are going there. The UK government has issued a cautionary, recommending that its citizens avoid the country. The US government hasn't gone quite that far, but urges caution if you visit.

NB Visitors are warned that the currency situation is dire. Avoid using your credit card. Purchase Zimbabwe dollars from a bureau de change and make sure you get the "unofficial" rate, which is as much as five times the official rate. Pay cash for everything as you go along, and DO NOT SIGN ANY EXPENSES TO YOUR HOTEL ACCOUNT. The hotel will insist that you pay by card or hard currency at the official rate, and you will end up paying far more than you should.

The main beneficiary of the mess in Zimbabwe is Zambia, across the river. A new complex has opened up, comprising two hotels and a conference centre. The Royal Livingstone is five star deluxe, and is every bit as good as the famous Victoria Falls Hotel, though of course it doesn't have the history. The Zambezi Sun is 3 star, and appeals to a broader market. It might be described as the equivalent of the Kingdom at Victoria Falls.

The complex has its own entrance to the Falls area, so residents of the two hotels do not get soaked for US$20 every time they wish to visit the Falls. They can stroll down whenever they like.

The one disadvantage is that most of the viewing areas are on the Zimbabwean side of the Falls. The Zambian view, which is basically that of the Eastern Cataract, is spectacular when the water level is high, but is likely to be rather disappointing when the river level drops between now and the end of the year.

This makes the helicopter excursion - the Flight of Angels - an absolute must. Alternatively, one should try to arrange a trip across the bridge into Zimbabwe.

In Zambia, accommodation and all other tourist services are priced in US dollars, and you may happily use your credit card.

Nationwide Airlines flies directly from Johannesburg to Livingstone, using Boeing 737-200 and 737-300 aircraft. I found the comfort and service levels just as good as those on SAA, and perhaps better, because SAA seem to have decided to reduce their legroom.

The South African Rand has slipped further, and is now hovering around ten Rand to the US Dollar. Against the British Pound it is trading consistently at around fourteen Rand.

If you have been directed to this point, it means that some or all of the information you are looking for is temporarily unavailable. Please see below for details.

Some of the government web sites are no longer operating, or have been relaunched at new addresses. If one of my links directs you to a site that is no longer operating, I would be grateful if you would Contact Me and let me know.

The restaurant guide is still under construction. The following notes may assist:

In Cape Town's Waterfront, consider Mortons, Hildebrand and Quay Four for elegant dining. For more casual fare, the Spur, and Balducci's are recommended. For pub grub, go to Ferryman's Tavern. (By the way, elegant dining doesn't mean you need to dress up. "Smart casual" is the dress rule for most places.)

The Green Dolphin is a good choice for those who enjoy quality live jazz along with quality dining.

Elsewhere in Cape Town, the Oasis at the Mount Nelson is top class. Floris Smit Huis is eclectically different. For seafood, La Perla in Sea Point is pretty much a legend.

For an evening of superb elegance on a wine farm, go to Buitenverwachting. The name means "Beyond Expectations" and it is. Not so far away is the delightful Constantia Uitsig.

In Durban, try the Famous Fish Company at the harbour, or the Langoustine in Durban North.

Durban is home to our Indian community, so you should try the curries. The Jewel of India is a good one, as is Saagries. The former is in the Holiday Inn Elangeni, while the latter is hidden downstairs in the Holiday Inn Marine Parade.

In Sandton, I recommend Trumps, and the Butcher Shop and Grill, both at Sandton Square.

Stuck in Port Elizabeth for a night? No bad thing. Port Elizabeth is very underrated, and I get stuck there whenever I possibly can. I go to Blackbeards for a fine meal, and there are many more excellent restaurants.

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(*** PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS SECTION IS ALWAYS UNDER CONSTRUCTION. ANY NASTY HIDDEN COST MAY BE ADDED WHENEVER IT COMES TO MY ATTENTION)

The airport taxes that apply to the countries of Southern Africa are usually added to the cost of your air ticket at the time of issue, so you don't have to worry about them.

The exceptions ares Zimbabwe and Zambia, which require a departure tax of US$20, cash money, US currency.

This applies when you depart on an international flight leaving Zimbabwe or Zambia.

Please note that the these airports will not accept US one hundred dollar bills - they don't trust them. Counterfeit notes of this denomination have turned up from time to time. Anyone in Zimbabwe may refuse to accept a one hundred dollar US note, so make sure that you carry a spread of denominations.

If you do not have US dollars cash available, will have to purchase them from a bureau de change (if they have any!).

The Zambians are a bit more accommodating than the Zimbabweans, and will accept SA Rand for the departure tax.

The foreign exchange desk at Vic Falls Hotel sells departure stamps, and will take dollars or other foreign currency.

So you see, it's a good idea to have some US dollars on you when travelling in Zimbabwe or Zambia.

By the way, the in Zimbabwe and Zambia, hotels are allowed to change your US dollars or other foreign currency into local currency, but they are not allowed to change local currency back into hard currency.

If you are changing foreign money or travellers' cheques, outlets of Thomas Cook and American Express in South Africa will charge you zero commission on cheques, and a reasonable commission on cash.

Commercial banks, however, will not only take much longer to do the transaction, but they will charge you a commission for any transaction - cash or cheques. This commission can be ridiculously high, especially if the bank is a long way from the main centres. (They claim that it represents the costs of sending the cheques or money by road to Johannesburg or wherever!)

The commission is based on a percentage, but there is a minimum which is charged on even the smallest amount. In other words, if you change just 20 US dollars, you may lose around thirty rand, which is twenty-five per cent. If you change 50 US dollars, you will still pay around thirty rand, which is only ten per cent. If you change 200 US dollars, the commission may be a reasonable percentage, instead of a rip off.

If you have to use a bank, ask them what percentage they charge, and what the minimum commission is, so that you can work out a reasonable amount to change. Don't expect the bank staff to volunteer this information. Usually it does not occur to them that they could save you from being ripped off.

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