MOUNT KINABALU
THE SUMMIT TRAIL
At 4101 metres (13,455ft) Kinabalu claims some respect by being the highest mountain in South East Asia & lies in the north-west of the island of Borneo. Whichever way you translate "Kinabalu" you will arrive at a meaning associated with death - a meaning which came all too close for comfort to a group of Army soldiers who descended from its peak to complete a traverse of Low's Gully a few years ago - an escapade which was beamed around the world and did winders for the tall tales told by the local mountain guides.
And so it was that I stood at the gates to the Kinabalu National Park on 2 January, suitably recovered from earlier festivities viewing the impressive vista that took in the whole mountain. The park covers nearly 300 sq. miles and includes possibly the most diverse range of flora and fauna of any mountain area in the world. With the view from park HQ being the last you really get to appreciate the scale of the ascent. Although possible to ascend in one day and return, the authorities advise that at least two days are taken.
If staying at Park HQ accomodation then regular slide / film shows are given explaining the nature to be found in the park which is just as well as the number of tourists on the lower reaches is enough to scare away anything that moves, so if its animal life you want then either leave early or wait until after lunch before climbing away. The first day of the ascent takes you up through heavy forest and dense vegetation with only occasional glimpses to views over Borneo. Rhododendron plants are a familiar sight for many and from reports seem to be gradually dominating the lower slopes. Rarer but more interesting is the Pitcher plant - a bright red colour with one leaf modified into a container for liquid to attract insects. After the gullible insect has found its way into the plant it finds its exit blocked by mossy spines and is then destined to die slowly through dissolving in the fluid and absorbed as nutrients to sustain the plant.... mmmm lovely!
At 11,000ft the sight of the Laban Rata resthouse came into view through the clouds and immediately struck me as one of the ugliest buildings I had ever seen in a National Park - clearly inspired by the sleek lines of your average builders portacabin it nevertheless offers beds for the night and a reasonably priced if rather haphazard menu. Many tourists give up the climb at this point as much due to the previous days exertions as to a sense of fear to what lies ahead
Immediately after Laban Rata it did however get to be a bit of funwith heavy ropes laid over the steeper rocks and wooden ladders strategically placed to keep you from straying into unknown territory. This is just as well as most try to attain the summit for sunrise, or at least in the first few hours before the clouds shroud the peak. ark regulations require that all climbers to the summit are accompanied by a registered guide although the one assinged to us couldnt keep our pace and happily waved us on, turning his attentions to a couple of ailing Japanese tourists instead. With temperatures around freezing, keeping moving is advised - even if you are doing so very slowly
Sunrise On The Summit
The geological makeup of Kinabalu is fairly straightforward - it's granite core being forced upwards and later eroded by sheet glaciation with a few smaller valley glaciers running outwards. The evidence for this is obvious from the summit peak as the whole top of the mountain has been ripped clean of any vegetation, leaving the scratch marks in full view. Erosion still continues through frost shattering but visitor damage is limited to the well maintained path network.
Whilst not technically demanding a good level of fitness is required for the climb. The quality of the guides do vary a bit but they are all of a good standard and generally enthusiastic about the job in hand. What was refreshing was the general lack of commercialism and subsequent hassle too often found at such sites. Long may that last - as one guide said afetr refusing a tip in favour of a free meal at the park restaurant - "the Americans havent arrived here - yet"
I'm not saying you shouldn't tip the staff at the park - but please do so sensibly.
For information on the park, contact
The director
Sabah Parks
Lot 3, Block K, Sinsuran Complex
PO Box 10626
88806 Kota Kinabalu
Sabah, Malaysia
Tel 211991
Suggested Reading:
Try Barnes & Noble for:
"Descent Into Chaos - the doomed expedition to lows gully"
or
"Plants of Mount Kinabalu"
Type the title into the link below then hit go.
