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FANCY MICE AS PETS--INFORMATION ON CARE, FEEDING, AND
UNDERSTANDING MICE
It is a little known fact that fancy mice make excellent
pets. Bred for temperament and color, they are
inquisitive, sociable, active, easy to handle, and
beautiful. With gentle and consistent handling, they will
soon look forward to your visits and will eagerly
investigate your hand and climb your arm all the way to
your shoulder! Fancy mice are one of the most inexpensive
pets to keep, and can literally be fed from your very own
kitchen.
The odor associated with
mice is produced by the males, and with proper hygiene
and care, no odor will be noticed with the females. Males
generally cannot be kept together as they will fight for
territory, sometimes to the death. One male can be housed
with up to three females if breeding is desired. Females
can and MUST be kept at least in pairs, but preferably in
groups. If housed alone, they will become lonely and
depressed. Unlike hamsters, if you find it difficult to
decide between various colors, you need not limit
yourself to one--with mice, you can choose them all!
Mice love to climb, and
should be provided with toys on which to do so. Bird
ladders, ropes, hamster/gerbil houses, plastic tubes, and
other rodent toys can be purchased. However, many
household items that would otherwise be disposed of make
fun toys for mice, such as small food boxes from the
kitchen, paper towel and toilet paper tubes, white paper
towels for shredding, etc. Chew toys are also important
for wearing down the ever-growing incisor teeth. Running
wheels can be used, but become soiled quickly and should
be washed frequently. Wheels are best hung from the side
of the cage using aluminum flashing to minimize the risk
of injury in pinch areas of the wheel.
Mice are entertaining to
watch, fun to handle, and do not carry diseases as do
their wild ancestors. They are easier to tame and much
less likely to bite than most hamsters, and are mellower
and quieter than gerbils.
HOUSING
A 5-gallon glass or plastic aquarium is large enough for
two mice, but 10-gallon tanks provide much more room and
are frequently cheaper as they are mass-produced. Floor
space is more important than height. Six inches in height
is all that is necessary. Lids may either be bought
ready-made (Four Paws makes a nice one), or hand made of
screening or <" hardware cloth. Lids must be
secure. Mice often climb their water bottles to reach the
top of the lid, usually to run around upside-down on it!
Wire cages cannot be used with mice as they can escape
between the wires.
Homemade cages can also be
made of plastic storage containers
(Rubbermaid, Sterilite,
Tamor, and other brands), using <" hardware cloth
with a wooden frame as a lid. Or, using the lid that
comes with the container, cut a large area out of the
center of the lid (leaving about 1" around the
edge), and glue gun <" hardware cloth to the
UNDERSIDE of the lid (this will cover any exposed plastic
edges to prevent chewing). For a 6-inch tall cage, a
16-ounce water bottle can be laid on top of the cage with
the spout protruding through a hole cut in the lid for
this purpose. Make sure the mice can reach it!
A pair of mice will have
sufficient room in a 5-gallon tank. As many as eight or
ten American mice may share a 10-gallon tank. Five to
seven English mice can comfortably share a 10-gallon
tank, depending upon their adult size. More space is
always better, and more mice increase the fun and
enjoyment of owning them.
Some mouse fanciers prefer
aspen bedding, others prefer inexpensive pine. CareFresh
and Gentle Touch brand beddings are superior at odor
control. It is important that bedding be as dust-free as
possible. Cedar will injure their delicate lungs and
should NEVER be used.
FEEDING
Mice do well on a basic diet of both lab block,
and wild bird seed which contains mostly millet, and not
much cracked corn. Stale bread (to the point of being
hard, but not moldy), Cheerios and other unsweetened
cereals, and crackers are liked. Other breeders give
whole oats and stale bread, while still others give a
hamster/gerbil mixture. Small quantities of fresh fruit
and non-green vegetables can occasionally be given, but
must be removed from the cage within a few hours to
prevent spoilage.
Food dishes are not
needed, as mice enjoy hunting for their food through the
bedding. Place food in the center of the cage to avoid
soiling it in the "bathroom corner."
Fresh water should be
available at all times. A water bottle is a
necessity. Mice can die
within two days if deprived of water, so it is vital to
check the water bottle frequently and refill it long
before it
is empty. Also, be sure
the ball bearings do not get stuck at the stopper end of
the tube--this will prevent water from entering the tube.
Water bowls should not be used with mice. They quickly
become soiled, dumped, or covered with bedding. Some
breeders and owners have found that mice do NOT tolerate
bottled water. They seem to need the chlorine. Simply use
plain tap water.
Cage, water bottle, and
toys should be washed once a week using dish soap or very
dilute bleach.
BREEDING FACTS
Mice breed prolifically. They can deliver a
litter of 1 to 20 pinkies (average 7 to 10) every three
weeks! Within 24 hours of delivering, the female is able
to conceive again, and so will be pregnant again while
she nurses her current litter. This is not a problem for
the mouse, but can become a housing problem for the owner
if breeding is left uncontrolled.
Babies are weaned in
approximately 21 days, just in time for the next litter!
A 5 week old female can be capable of becoming pregnant,
so sexes should be separated.
ENGLISH OR
AMERICAN?
Mice generally found in pet shops are American
mice, including "feeders." American mice are
small, with fairly small ears. They are cute, active, fun
to own, and entertaining to watch. English mice are
available only through specialty breeders and the rare
pet shops which are stocked by them. As an adult, the
English mouse is usually larger with a more racy, sleek
body, larger ears, and a longer tail. Some are similar in
size to American mice, but the ears and tail will still
be proportionately larger. The English are generally more
docile and less active.
Both American and English
mice make wonderful pets, and can be housed together,
regardless of size difference. Females may spat initially
when placed together, and should be introduced on neutral
ground, but they usually work out their differences
within a few days and become happy cage-mates. Both types
come in thousands of colors. Coat variations include
normal, satin (very shiny!), curly, longhaired, or a
combination, i.e., curly longhaired satin. There are even
hairless mice. Some examples of color are: chocolate,
yellow, black, white, Siamese, Himalayan, superblack,
blue, etc. Many colors darken with age, as do the points
of a Siamese. Eyes are pink or black. Lifespan is 1 to 2
years for English and American mice.
With both types of mice,
personality can vary greatly, from extremely timid to
very sociable. A timid mouse will shrink back into a
corner with its eyes closed when you reach into the cage.
A sociable mouse will approach your hand, sniff, and
sometimes immediately climb into it. Before it is fully
tame, the easiest way to pick up a mouse is to gently
lift it by the base of the tail (near the body) just long
enough to place it onto your other hand. It is best to
remember that mice are hunted by a great many animals,
and they are born knowing this. Much of their behavior
can be understood when this is kept in mind.
Happy mousing!!
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