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FANCY MICE AS PETS--INFORMATION ON CARE, FEEDING, AND UNDERSTANDING MICE

It is a little known fact that fancy mice make excellent pets. Bred for temperament and color, they are inquisitive, sociable, active, easy to handle, and beautiful. With gentle and consistent handling, they will soon look forward to your visits and will eagerly investigate your hand and climb your arm all the way to your shoulder! Fancy mice are one of the most inexpensive pets to keep, and can literally be fed from your very own kitchen.

The odor associated with mice is produced by the males, and with proper hygiene and care, no odor will be noticed with the females. Males generally cannot be kept together as they will fight for territory, sometimes to the death. One male can be housed with up to three females if breeding is desired. Females can and MUST be kept at least in pairs, but preferably in groups. If housed alone, they will become lonely and depressed. Unlike hamsters, if you find it difficult to decide between various colors, you need not limit yourself to one--with mice, you can choose them all!

Mice love to climb, and should be provided with toys on which to do so. Bird ladders, ropes, hamster/gerbil houses, plastic tubes, and other rodent toys can be purchased. However, many household items that would otherwise be disposed of make fun toys for mice, such as small food boxes from the kitchen, paper towel and toilet paper tubes, white paper towels for shredding, etc. Chew toys are also important for wearing down the ever-growing incisor teeth. Running wheels can be used, but become soiled quickly and should be washed frequently. Wheels are best hung from the side of the cage using aluminum flashing to minimize the risk of injury in pinch areas of the wheel.

Mice are entertaining to watch, fun to handle, and do not carry diseases as do their wild ancestors. They are easier to tame and much less likely to bite than most hamsters, and are mellower and quieter than gerbils.

HOUSING
A 5-gallon glass or plastic aquarium is large enough for two mice, but 10-gallon tanks provide much more room and are frequently cheaper as they are mass-produced. Floor space is more important than height. Six inches in height is all that is necessary. Lids may either be bought ready-made (Four Paws makes a nice one), or hand made of screening or <" hardware cloth. Lids must be secure. Mice often climb their water bottles to reach the top of the lid, usually to run around upside-down on it! Wire cages cannot be used with mice as they can escape between the wires.

Homemade cages can also be made of plastic storage containers

(Rubbermaid, Sterilite, Tamor, and other brands), using <" hardware cloth with a wooden frame as a lid. Or, using the lid that comes with the container, cut a large area out of the center of the lid (leaving about 1" around the edge), and glue gun <" hardware cloth to the UNDERSIDE of the lid (this will cover any exposed plastic edges to prevent chewing). For a 6-inch tall cage, a 16-ounce water bottle can be laid on top of the cage with the spout protruding through a hole cut in the lid for this purpose. Make sure the mice can reach it!

A pair of mice will have sufficient room in a 5-gallon tank. As many as eight or ten American mice may share a 10-gallon tank. Five to seven English mice can comfortably share a 10-gallon tank, depending upon their adult size. More space is always better, and more mice increase the fun and enjoyment of owning them.

Some mouse fanciers prefer aspen bedding, others prefer inexpensive pine. CareFresh and Gentle Touch brand beddings are superior at odor control. It is important that bedding be as dust-free as possible. Cedar will injure their delicate lungs and should NEVER be used.

FEEDING
Mice do well on a basic diet of both lab block, and wild bird seed which contains mostly millet, and not much cracked corn. Stale bread (to the point of being hard, but not moldy), Cheerios and other unsweetened cereals, and crackers are liked. Other breeders give whole oats and stale bread, while still others give a hamster/gerbil mixture. Small quantities of fresh fruit and non-green vegetables can occasionally be given, but must be removed from the cage within a few hours to prevent spoilage.

Food dishes are not needed, as mice enjoy hunting for their food through the bedding. Place food in the center of the cage to avoid soiling it in the "bathroom corner."

Fresh water should be available at all times. A water bottle is a

necessity. Mice can die within two days if deprived of water, so it is vital to check the water bottle frequently and refill it long before it

is empty. Also, be sure the ball bearings do not get stuck at the stopper end of the tube--this will prevent water from entering the tube. Water bowls should not be used with mice. They quickly become soiled, dumped, or covered with bedding. Some breeders and owners have found that mice do NOT tolerate bottled water. They seem to need the chlorine. Simply use plain tap water.

Cage, water bottle, and toys should be washed once a week using dish soap or very dilute bleach.

BREEDING FACTS
Mice breed prolifically. They can deliver a litter of 1 to 20 pinkies (average 7 to 10) every three weeks! Within 24 hours of delivering, the female is able to conceive again, and so will be pregnant again while she nurses her current litter. This is not a problem for the mouse, but can become a housing problem for the owner if breeding is left uncontrolled.

Babies are weaned in approximately 21 days, just in time for the next litter! A 5 week old female can be capable of becoming pregnant, so sexes should be separated.

ENGLISH OR AMERICAN?
Mice generally found in pet shops are American mice, including "feeders." American mice are small, with fairly small ears. They are cute, active, fun to own, and entertaining to watch. English mice are available only through specialty breeders and the rare pet shops which are stocked by them. As an adult, the English mouse is usually larger with a more racy, sleek body, larger ears, and a longer tail. Some are similar in size to American mice, but the ears and tail will still be proportionately larger. The English are generally more docile and less active.

Both American and English mice make wonderful pets, and can be housed together, regardless of size difference. Females may spat initially when placed together, and should be introduced on neutral ground, but they usually work out their differences within a few days and become happy cage-mates. Both types come in thousands of colors. Coat variations include normal, satin (very shiny!), curly, longhaired, or a combination, i.e., curly longhaired satin. There are even hairless mice. Some examples of color are: chocolate, yellow, black, white, Siamese, Himalayan, superblack, blue, etc. Many colors darken with age, as do the points of a Siamese. Eyes are pink or black. Lifespan is 1 to 2 years for English and American mice.

With both types of mice, personality can vary greatly, from extremely timid to very sociable. A timid mouse will shrink back into a corner with its eyes closed when you reach into the cage. A sociable mouse will approach your hand, sniff, and sometimes immediately climb into it. Before it is fully tame, the easiest way to pick up a mouse is to gently lift it by the base of the tail (near the body) just long enough to place it onto your other hand. It is best to remember that mice are hunted by a great many animals, and they are born knowing this. Much of their behavior can be understood when this is kept in mind.

Happy mousing!!

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