You've arrived at one of the most beautiful, and troubled, cities in the United States. Its metropolitan area fast becoming another Silicon Valley, this city is also a culinary hotbed and has a vibrant cultural scene. Oh, and museums! I think you'll find a few here. Sadly, portions of this city resemble a war zone, and "The District" often totters near bankruptcy. Nevertheless, ignore the suburbanites who preach that DC is dangerous and who themselves dwell in pallid communities like Rockville and Columbia. Unless you've got an alarmingly errant sense of direction, you won't go near these heinous areas, and there's plenty to see that will make even the most cynical visitor proud of our nation's capital.
WHAT TO SEE:
You must have fallen head first into the deepest West Virginia coal mine if you don't know about the Smithsonian, Capitol, White House, monuments, memorials, etc., so I won't discuss them. I do recommend visiting the recently opened Korean War and FDR Memorials, however; both are moving and will stir your emotions. Explore the neighborhoods: Georgetown is too preppy and trendy for me, but worth a visit. Quirky rainbow flag-waving Dupont Circle is full of beautiful row houses: this is nineteenth century DC! The National Zoo is a must: even if you are not a rabid animal lover, its tree-lined paths make for a lovely walk, and give a chance to escape the oppressive summer heat. The Botanical Gardens offer a dizzying display of flora.
WHAT TO DO:
Wear good walking shoes! A good walking tour is starting off at Arlington National Cemetery, cross the . . . Bridge, and then strolling along the Mall. You could also start in Rosslyn, walk across the . . . Bridge into Georgetown, and then make your way towards Foggy Bottom. Connecticut and Massachusetts Avenues are also prime for good urban hikes. Massachusetts Avenue, of course, is where Embassy Row is located. Wolftrap Theater, an outdoors amphitheater in suburban Virginia, has a schedule offering world class entertainment during the summer months: bring a picnic dinner and a blanket and enjoy everything from ballet to the symphony.
WHAT NOT TO DO:
Don't visit DC during the summer months unless you have no other choice. You'll sweat more than a Clinton administration official at a press conference, and plus, the swarms of student groups and the noise they generate were always enough to drive me insane! Remember, this city was once a swamp. The humidity can be unbearable, so listen to your mother and drink plenty of liquids and lay off the fattening foods if you do go between June and August. Spring and fall are much better seasons. Winter is cold if you're a wimpy Californian like me, but at least you'll never wait in line!
WHERE TO EAT:
If you're at or near the Mall and want to eat a reasonably priced meal, the Commerce and Justice Departments have excellent cafeterias. Just pretend you're a civil servant, keep the loud Hawaiian shirt at home, and ask where they are located when you enter the buildings' lobby. Otherwise, Connecticut Avenue and 17th Street in Dupont Circle are home to fine dining . . . Thai, Greek, Chinese, Indian, Japanese . . . you've got it! Wrap Works on 1601 Connecticut Avenue NW is a great place to fill up if you're on a budget. Lee's Ice Cream, a few blocks north, is mandatory for dessert. You'll love the ridiculously named flavors: Libido, a luscious pistachio concoction, has me salivating as I type this. Jaleo's, near the Metro Center on 480 7th Street NW, is a delightful place for enjoying tapas, and the Cactus Cantina, 3300 Wisconsin Avenue NW, has huge, tasty Tex-Mex meals. Go to Adams-Morgan, north of Dupont: this neighborhood has great Vietnamese, West African, Salvadorian, and other ethnic restaurants that will tickle your taste buds.
WHERE TO STAY:
With friends or relatives. This isn't a cheap town. My friend, Kim, who lives in Takoma Park, loves having guests over, but you'd better ask me first and I'll see what I can do. There is also the American Youth Hostel (202-783-6161) at 733 15th St NW, # 840.