EXPEDICIONES ANDINAS

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Cotopaxi - ©Marco Cruz

 


 

Camp at Cotopaxi - ©Marco Cruz

Mountaneering

The sight of snow-capped pinnacles along the "Avenue of the Volcanoes" piercing clear blue skies, cannot help but tempt climbers of all levels. In the northern part of Ecuador, over 200 volcanic elevations are symmetrically aligned atop the Andes ranges, most of them are easily accessible within hours from Quito. Over ten mountains are covered year round with glaciers and their altitudes are above 5000 meters.

EXPEDICIONES ANDINAS offers climbing tours to Ecuador's principal climbing destinations.  The main climbing package consists of an acclimatization ascent up Ruco Pichincha (4,794 m) near Quito, a conditioning climb up North Illiniza (5,116 m), a climb up the world's highest active volcano, Cotopaxi (5,897 m) and finally the ascent up the majestic Chimborazo (6,310 m).

This package lasts 15 days and challenges both the intermediate and seasoned climber.   Also,  EXPEDICIONES ANDINAS offers top quality technical mountaineering equipment, full camping equipment, overnight facilities, cuisine, and transportation, and now offers our climbing friends the exclusive use of the "Estrella del Chimborazo" hut at the Chimborazo base camp where llamas and alpacas breed in a magnificent landscape.

While the main climbing package is prearranged, we can tailor climbs for groups that would like to include other peaks or activities in their package.  All climbs are guided either by Marco Cruz himself, or by a qualified and experienced guide working on the EXPEDICIONES ANDINAS team.


 

Itinerary

DAY 1: ARRIVAL
Arrival at the Quito international airport located at 2,800 m. above sea level. Assistance with immigrations and customs.  Transfer from the airport to a first class hotel.   Dinner and accommodations.

DAY 2: QUITO
After breakfast we visit the city of Quito located at the foot of the active volcano known as Pichincha.  We will visit the main monuments including the Cathedral, the Government Palace, La Compañía de Jesus, San Francisco and the cloisters of Saint Augustine and La Merced.  Before lunch we will visit El Panecillo, which overlooks the city and the landscape of the snowcapped peaks of the northern part of the country. We will eat a typical lunch at a restaurant with the best Ecuadorian cuisine.

In the afternoon we will visit the Equator Monument, marking 0° latitude, located 30 km. North of Quito.  This visit includes the Ethnographic Museum of Ecuador, a multi-ethnic and pluricultural nation.  Dinner and accommodations at the hotel.

DAY 3: PICHINCHA
After eating a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we will climb Pichincha.  From Quito we will drive to Cruz Loma at 3,800 m., where we will have a fantastic view of Quito at its foot.  From here we will begin the ascension to the old peak called Ruco Pichincha at 4,794 m.  This takes about four hours of easy climbing and will allow our group to acclimatize.   Return to Quito through one of the traditional zones of old Quito.  Dinner and accommodations at the hotel.

DAY 4: ILLINIZAS
After breakfast we will leave the hotel and take the Pan-American Highway South, heading for the Illinizas.  This is an old volcano which is very eroded by glaciers with two peaks of rock and ice jutting to 5,263 m.   We will leave the vehicles two hours away at an old hacienda and continue on foot to the base camp located in the middle of a forest at 4,100 m.  Lunch, tea, and dinner at the camp.  Overnight in tents.

DAY 5: ILLINIZAS
We will eat a very early breakfast and depart at 4:00 am towards the northern peak of 5,116 m.  Relatively easy climb via ancient rocks.  At approximately 100 m. from the summit, we will finish the ascent using fixed cords, fixed previously by our guides.   The return is done directly through the sand pits to the base, and from there to the camp.   The climbing time is approximately six hours.  Box lunch, tea and dinner at the camp.  Overnight in tents.

DAY 6: COTOPAXI
Breakfast at the camp.  We will descend on foot to the hacienda where we will take vehicles to the Cotopaxi National Park.  A camp will be set at 3,800 m. within the National Park on the foothills of Cotopaxi.  Lunch, tea and dinner at the camp.   Overnight in tents.

DAY 7: COTOPAXI
Breakfast at the camp.  Free morning dedicated to preparing equipment for the climb up Cotopaxi.  After lunch we will depart to the shelter which will take one hour by vehicle and another hour by foot.  The shelter is located at 4,900 m. Dinner and overnight at shelter.

However, depending on our guests' physical condition and degree of acclimatization, overnight can be spent at the base camp. In this case, we will depart from the base camp by car a bit earlier to begin the ascension.

DAY 8: COTOPAXI
Departure at midnight after a light breakfast.  We start the climb along the slopes covered by volcanic ash, and then continue along the glaciers and climb slowly on the northern slope. The first light of morning will shine as we reach the summit in the early hours of the morning after eight hours of climbing.  Our return to the shelter will take 4 hours from where which we will return by vehicle to the camp for tea and dinner and overnight rest.

DAY 9: RESERVE DAY
Reserve day in case of bad weather.  All meals at the camp.  This day can also be used for rest or to climb the ancient volcano Rumiñahui at 4,712 m.

DAY 10: CHIMBORAZO
After breakfast at the camp we will go by vehicle through the Mulaló Valley to Latacunga and then continue South on the Pan-American Highway to Ambato and from there to the valley of Totorillas through the sandpit "El Gran Arenal", the only example of the Puna ecosystem in Ecuador.  We will reach our base camp, at the southern foot of Chimborazo at 4,000 meters where our mountain hut, "Estrella del Chimborazo" is located. Here llamas and alpacas graze.  Lunch in route, Dinner and overnight at camp.

DAY 11: CHIMBORAZO
Breakfast at the camp.  Free morning.  After lunch we will ascend to the Whimper shelter, located at 5,000 meters on the western slope of mountain.  This will take one hour by vehicle and one hour by foot.  Dinner and overnight at shelter.   However, depending on our guests' physical condition and degree of acclimatization, overnight can be spent at the base camp.  In this case, we will depart from the base camp by car a bit earlier to begin the ascension.

DAY 12: CHIMBORAZO
Ascension to the summit at 6,310 meters after a light breakfast at midnight, following the route established by Edward Whimper during his first ascension of Chimborazo in 1880 together with the Italian guide Carrel de Velturuanche.  8 to 10 hours of climbing.   The return to the shelter will take 4 hours and from there we will return to the base camp.  Overnight at the camp.

DAY 13: RESERVE DAY
One day is reserved in the event that bad weather prohibits us from successfully ascending Chimborazo.  If this day is not required for a second attempt we can descend to the valley of Riobamba and visit any of the indian markets.  Overnight at Abraspungo Hotel at the outskirts of Riobamba.

DAY 14: FREE DAY
Free day to explore the city and enjoy a farewell lunch at Marco Cruz's house.   Overnight at Abraspungo Hotel.

DAY 15: RETURN TO QUITO
Return to Quito for lunch.  Afternoon free for shopping.  Farewell dinner.

DAY 16: FAREWELL
Transfer to Airport to catch your flight back.


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Expediciones Andinas
P.O. Box 66
Riobamba - Ecuador
Phone: +593-3-964915   •   Fax +593-3-969604
U.S. Phone: (703) 354-5343  •  Fax (703) 354-6404
e-mail: expand@altavista.net

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