lafon.htm

Introduction

This Burgundy domaine is situated in Meursault, Cote d'Or. It was founded by Jules Lafon, the grandfather of Dominique Lafon, who is currently in charge and has been since the early eighties. Lafon's glorious reputation can best be described as the result of posession of a select array of vineyards and an utter dedication to quality supported by the technical skill to make such dedication effective. No real philosophy of winemaking here; one leans on the well recorded experience of years, yet never avoids the (small and never issued) experiment in order to find further improvements. Low yields and old vines are considered the minimum to start working with. And that work results in beautifully intense wines that however take years to fully show their
potential. Another unfortunately hard thing is obtaining Lafon's wines. When visiting the domaine in 1994 it was explained that their usual production of around 60.000 bottles/year attracts about ten buyers a bottle.

Vineyard holdings
Vineyard	Status	Area (in ha)	Age of vines (years)
Le Montrachet	Grand Cru	0,33	30-50
Meursault Les Perrieres	Premier Cru	0,75	40
Meursault Les Charmes	Premier Cru	1,75	40-70
Meursault Les Genevrieres	Premier Cru	0,55	45
Meursault Goutte d'Or	Premier Cru	0,33	replanted 1990
Meursault Clos de la Barre	Lieu-dit	2,10	35
Meursault En la Barre	Lieu-dit	0,60	40
Meursault Desiree	Lieu-dit	0,50	25
Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu	Premier Cru	3,75	33-40
Volnay Clos des Chenes	Premier Cru	0,33	25
Volnay Les Champans	Premier Cru	0,50	70 (2 thirds of vineyard) 8 (1 third of vineyard)
Monthelie les Duresses	Premier Cru	1,00	9-20

Information in this paragraph obtained from "The Great Domaines of Burgundy", by Remington Norman, Kyle Cathie Limited, London, second edition, 1996, page 198.

Technical information

The tending of the vineyards is done with as less chemical sprays and herbicides as possible. Low yields (35 hl/ha or less) are obtained by preferring old vines (of low yield clones), reduction of fertilisation and severe pruning. Lafon is often a late picker, going for high sugar rather than concerning about the acidity levels. It is believed that the low yield regime always provides enough acidity. Grapes are hand picked and pressed pneumatically (slowly and gently though). With the reds extraction of harsh tannins is avoided always. Red harvest is destemmed almost completely.

Fermentation is done in barrels, 100% new oak for the premiers and grand crus. A heat exchanger is available to control the temperature of the fermentation process. The wines ferment on natural yeasts, the use of sulfuric dioxide being lower than 7g/hl Battonage is used once a week average untill February to March after the harvest. Two rackings are used. One after 6-7 months, together with an assemblage, the second the following spring when the wines are racked off the fine lees as well. Lafon fines very carefully and bottles unfiltered, demanding extra care during transport and subsequent cellaring as well. Total time between harvest and botteling is usually almost two years.

Tasting impressions

As one tends to say it is a rare occasion to drink a Lafon wine that has fully developed its potential. I am aware that my impressions so far come only from tasting young(er) wines of Lafon. Yet the span of life I have so far been able to oversee gives me every confidence that the critics who so widely laureate these wines may very well be right. These wines do need a considerable amout of time to display their full potential. But it's a wait that is well rewarded. Lafon makes wines of fabulous intensity, yet also wines that still manage to express their individual vineyard background. The reds are perhaps lesser known and celebrated than the wines. Let's say that I will not further limit my chances to obtain Lafon's reds by argueing this statement here.

I have once had the opportunity to visit the domaine, in 1994. I was then able to taste the full range of Lafon wines, including a rather unforgettable sip of Montrachet 1993. Comparative impressions of that tasting in Meursault, as well as some
comparative notes of a Domaines Lafon & Leflaive tasting in Amsterdam in 1996 appear under 'A few interesting tastings'.

In the third column you will find individually specified notes on Lafon wines I have tasted.

1994 Meursault Clos de la Barre

1994 Meursault Charmes

1994 Meursault Perrieres

1994 Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu

1994 Volnay Clos des Chenes

1994 Volnay Champans

1993 Meursault

1993 Meursault Desiree

1993 Meursault Clos de la Barre

1993 Meursault Charmes

1993 Meursault Genevrieres